Summer time, summer time. Sweet, seductive, and way too short. To make the most of it, many a summer evening is best spent on a terrace with friends consuming frosty, frothy cocktails or a crisp bubbly. In fact, until relocating to Chile ten years ago (this month!), I was condemned to a birthday of snow and ice in late January. Not anymore. My birthday now is spent outside, hopefully with a dry rosé and massage. I love savoring the long afternoons and 9pm sunsets with balmy breezes, either in Santiago and/or Buenos Aires, my two favorite cities. As a tribute to cool bars, abundant cocktails, and good times in both capitals for verano 2011 here’s a short round-up of some of my favorite terraces in Santiago and BA with happening scenes. Note the word “happening” as a parameter. However, this is certainly not an exhaustive list. If you want that, grab a copy of Eat Wine Santiago (version 2.0 to launch next week) or if in BA, Time Out on the newsstands. Salud amigos!
Santiago
Casa Lastarria
José Victorino Lastarria, Santiago Centro (638 3236), Metro: Universidad Católica (red line) Open: Daily 1pm-2am Credit: AE, DC, MC, V.
Brand smacking new, this newbie to the Lastarria / Bellas Artes hood is housed in a 1930s Tudor-style building. Casa Lastarria seems to be on the lips of every hipster and barrio resident as of late. Its slick style and low-key natural décor (think wood, concrete, stainless steel) make it a hub for lunch with fresh Chilean-style cuisine. Sit inside and observe the kitchen at work through the glass window. However, now that it has its liquor license, the draw at happy hour, sunset, and into the night is obvious. The action spills out into the new plaza in front of Casa Lastarria where mojitos, Kir Royal, and Pisco Sours circulate at the speed of light. Hopping, oh yeah. Order some snackies like their homemade empanadas or a tabla with assorted cheeses and cured meats. The perfect place to chill after a (hot) day of work.
Baco
Nueva de Lyon 113, Local 6 (231 4444), Metro: Los Leones (red line) Open: Mon-Sat 12pm-1am; Sun 12:30-midnight Credit: AE, DC, MC, V.
The name alludes to the God of Wine, Baco, in this modern, casual bistro that honors France’s most typical dishes. Secluded in a quiet plaza off the bustling main artery of Providencia, this airy, open restaurant has an ample terrace for alfresco dining. Try their über-fresh salmon tartare, pick at a cheese board or paté among friends, dig into a creamy, eggy quiche or savor a satisfying duck confit. The ample wine list has a large selection of wines by the glass on the central chalkboard, ideal for sipping your way from a bubbly Cruzat brut to a sultry Terruyno Carmenere. If you’re into wine, then by all means, try some of the creme de la creme which rotate on a weekly basis from Almaviva to Altair or Neyén. Best of all, you can count on reasonable prices, prompt service, and free water served on every table.
Mestizo
Parque Bicentenario 4050, Vitacura (07 477 6093 www.mestizorestaurant.cl), Bus: C03 Open: Mon-Sat 1- 3:30pm, Mon-Thur 8pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 8pm-12:30am
Overlooking the gorgeous green Parque Bicentenario, Mestizo quickly became the IT restaurant in Santiago after its inauguration in 2008. The buzz was/is on the lips of every critic, foodie, and traveler. It was so hard to get a table that it was almost like something “sacred”. So in that vein, I went to eat here on a couple occasions. In my opinion, the place is over-hyped, and I confess to being conflicted in even recommending it. However, come summer, what I love about the place is the amazing architecture (the bathrooms!), the lush view, the peace of the park, and the killer terrace in the summer. It is idyllic for sipping a pisco sour or martini as the sun sinks into the western horizon turning pink, then purple. Keep it simple and just stick to snacks like ceviche trilogy, but be prepared for slow service. It’s all good though. The view is worth it.
Red2One
W Hotel, 21st Floor, Isidora Goyenechea 3000, corner Augusto Leguía (770 0000), Metro: El Golf (red line) Open: Mon-Tues 8pm-midnight, Wed-Sat 8pm-2am Credit: AE, DC, MC, V.
Dress up in that slinky little dress and three-inch high stilettos, there’s finally a swanky rooftop bar to get your groove on in Santiago. Live the high life when you’re socializing at the W’s posh Red2One bar, overlooking the spectacular Andes, hotel pool scene, and the Santiago cityscape through voyeuristic glass walls. Order up a minty mojito, or ruby-hued cosmopolitan and say salud to the city’s best, and coolest, bar with a view—up to the Andean ski villages for starters.
Buenos Aires
Le Bar
Tucuman 422, between Reconquista and San Martín, Microcentro (+ 54 11 5219-0858, www.lebarbuenosaires.blogspot.com) Open: Mon-Fri 12pm-1pm; Saturdays at night Credit: AE, MC, V, VE, Maestro
On the outside, the building reads last century and speaks of the past. Enter, though, and you are transported into one classy cocktail bar that’s been “recycled” with hip designer flair. Order a jewel-colored martini from one of the mixologists, err bartenders, and shake it up on their roof top lounge which is the cherry. With cool tunes and tasty nibbles, this is one of the best drink bars in BA. Warning: go easy if headed to Happy Hour.
Milión
Paraná 1048, Barrio Norte (+54 11 4815-9925, www.milion.com.ar) Open: 1pm-4am daily Credit: AE, MC, V
Oh la la. Housed in a beautiful early 20th century Beaux-arts mansion, originally home to the Allemand family, the converted palace whispers of BA’s golden era with its marble staircases, elegant masonry, and tall windows. Walk through the receiving hall out the back is the green garden, romantically lit with candles and fairy lights. On sultry summer nights, it’s idyllic for sipping chilled cocktails under Buenos Aires’ starlight sky. Or head inside to experience the cool vibe where DJs spin out groovy tunes, mixologists shake it up, and the scene is hopelessly hip. One of the best spots in BA, for sure.
Congo
Honduras 5329, between Godoy Cruz and Juan B Justo, Palermo Hollywood (+54 11 4833-5857) Open: Tues-Sat from 8:15pm-4am Credit: Cash only
At the crossroads of Palermo Soho and Hollywood, you’ll discover a gem and one of BA’s best outdoor spaces. Congo turns on its charm with a laid back vibe. Enter into its jungle to a lushly decorated, cozy brown and beige, leather-clad interior. However, the highlight is out back in the garden. Order a bucket with one of Argentina’s dry sparklers and soak up the sweet, sultry BA nights in the summer under its towering tree, dramatically lit up. Good service, cherry staff make it popular, with reason. Get there early or prepared for crowds when the porteños take the place by storm (after midnight).
Thanks to Manoel Petry for the W’s Rooftop bar pic; Roboppy for Mestizo; Eduardo Morato for Milión.
