Appeared in LAN Airlines-IN Magazine: November 2006
Unedited version:
In Mendoza, it seems that all roads lead to a winery given that more than 70% of all wine production in Argentina is concentrated here. Mendoza’s wine scene is booming and has come into its own by blending viticulture tourism with the unique landscapes of vines and the impressive Andes Mountain Range. In a relatively compact space, spanning the city and countryside, wine lovers can taste these inspiring wines alongside the casks, learn about the excellent terroir (climate and soil) of the area that produces these prized grapes, and pamper themselves with great food, spa treatments and luxurious hotels. Sounds like wine paradise? It is.
Here are some recommendations to make the most out of a few days in Mendoza wine country.
Day 1: Much of the wine action is centered in the area known as Luján de Cuyo, about 20-30 minutes south of Mendoza city. A good way to get the tour underway is to head to the highly acclaimed Achaval Ferrer, a winery only producing high-quality red wines in limited volumes with their Malbecs from different single vineyards garnering up to 95 points by Wine Spectator with its winery located on the banks of the Rio Mendoza. Afterwards, drive north towards the charming, tree-lined suburb of Chacras de Coria to Altavista, a product of Franco-Argentine cultural fusion, where their “terroir-focused” philosophy makes Grand Crus in the traditional way of Bordeaux .
A great lunch break is at the modern and chic La Bourgogne , part of the Carlos Pulenta Winery, where refined technique and local ingredients with some of the winery’s “cortes”, or assemblages can be inspiring.
After lunch, stop next door at Fabre Montmayou, where French know-how is combined with Mendocino soil to produce terroir expression wines. If possible, try Le Gran Vin, one of the classic references in Argentinean wine.
For the rest of the afternoon, kick your feet back at the Park Hyatt and treat yourself to one of their spa treatments or famous Thai massage.
Dine at Francis Mallman 1884, part of the Escorihuela winery and considered to be one of Mendoza’s landmark restaurants with a selection of grilled meats and homemade pasta, and a wine list the size of a dictionary (*).
Day 2: There is much more to the Mendoza wine scene than only Malbecs, and a festive way to get the day off to a start is at Chandon, the leader in sparkling wines in Argentina . A direct subsidiary since 1959 of Moet & Chandon in Champagne , France, take the tour to learn how both mass quantities and more boutique sparkling wine (elaborated in the traditional champenoise method) are made. It is worth the weight in your suitcase to bring back a bottle of the Baron B Unique.
Just down a country road dotted with poplar trees is the well known Catena Zapata winery, founded by Nicolas Zapata, a Malbec pioneer and one of the first wineries to put Argentina on the international export map. Apart from its prized wines and stunning view of the Andes , the winery dazzles the visitor with its singular architecture—a Mayan pyramid.
For a total departure from wine, head east for a luncheon at Almacen del Sur, a foodie’s dream. With its own organic farm and orchard, this gourmet delicatessen produces its own delicacies like sun dried Roma tomatoes, green tomato chutney, roasted piquillo peppers, rose petal preserves, Malbec jam, among others. If you can spare the time (and space in your stomach), their 5 course lunch is a culinary odyssey showing off the homemade products.
Finally, Norton, one of Argentina ’s solid large benchmark wineries (owned by the Austrian Swarovski family) is worth a visit to get a sense of one of the country’s larger players—Argentineans after all consume 39 liters of wine per year! In the evening, hang out at the adorable Club Tapiz, a boutique hotel located in a historic estate dating back to 1890 surrounded by vineyards and enthralling. For a low key dinner, try their cozy restaurant, Terruño, where the tender “chivo”, or roasted goat, is succulent.
Day 3: Although 50 miles to the south, the Uco Valley definitely merits a “wine detour” as it is the land of coveted terroir with enthralling views of the Andes from every angle. Here many of the winery heavyweights and foreign investments are concentrated because of one reason: the perfect soil and climate, which is cooler than its sister wineries to the north.
A good point to being at is with the tour at O. Fournier, located in La Consulta, where bush vines are planted at over 1,200 meters altitude. Given O. Fournier’s Spanish roots, it is natural that they have specialized in producing excellent tempranillo in addition to world class blends like A Crux and B Crux. The facilities are unique—an ultra modern winery which imposes on the horizon and slated for 2007, a luxury hotel. Continue northeast through country back roads to the feet of the towering snow covered Andes in an area known as Vista Flores.
Stop for a visit at Monteviejo or Flecha de los Andes , two of the wineries in the prestigious Clos de los Siete that grow high altitude Malbec and some Chardonnay. Apart from a jaw dropping view, the wines are impressive with old world elegance. Recommended for lunch, only 10 minutes down the road, is one of the classic eateries in valley known as the Posada del Jamón, specializing in home cured Serrano Ham, salami, and other cuts of pork. Humongous portions, reasonable prices, and a well crafted wine list make this rustic haunt a gem.
After lunch, one last stop at Lurton, the investment of Bordeaux brother Jacques y Francois Lurton is worth the effort. If the cellar master is on hand, you may be fortunate enough for tastings straight from the tanks or barrels of some of their excellent wines, including the Pinot Gris.
Back in Luján de Cuyo, check-in to the luxurious and swish Cavas Wine Lodge with its individual designer cabañas in the middle of the vineyards with impeccable taste. Sip your Baron B and watch the sun set over the Andes from your private rooftop terrace, or have a wine spa treatment, and then dig in to some modern cuisine at the hotel restaurant with local wines from the Cavas cellar.
Wineries:
Achaval Ferrer, www.achaval-ferrer.com, 54 261 498 4874
Altavista, www.altavistawines.com, 54 261 496 4684
Fabre Montmayou, export@bodegasdomvistalba.com.ar, 54 261 498 2330
Chandon, 54 261 490 9900 / 06
Catena Zapata, 54 261 490 0214
Norton, 54 261 490 9700
O. Fournier, 56 262 245 1579 / 088 / 598
Monteviejo, 56 262 242 2054
Lurton, 54 262 249067 / 78
Where to sleep:
Park Hyatt 54 261 441 1234
Cavas Wine Lodge 54 261 410 6927/28
Where to dine:
La Bourgogne 54 261 498 9421
Francis Mallman 1884 54 261 424 2698 (*) Fair is fair, our last meals at Mallman have been very lackluster (not the case when this article was turned in in March). We are now recommending Francesco as an alternative, or Las Negras for the young, very hip, and in search of creative cuisine.
Terruño clubtapiz@tapiz.com.ar 54 261 496 3433
Almacen del Sur 54 261 410 6597
Posada del Jamón 56 262 249 2053
Specialized wine tours in Mendoza: For custom made, luxury wine tours with a special touch contact: Liz Caskey -Culinary and Wine Tours
