Two years ago in Chicago, a couple hip colleagues invited me to a little wine bar on Milwaukee named Juicy Wine Co. We gnoshed on slinky Serrano ham and some nutty Manchego while sipping away a Sicilian wine, Tenuta delle Terre Nere, an unbelievably fresh yet earthy medium-body red that constantly reminded me of a mineral-laden Pinot or Nebbiolo. Seduced by Juicy’s wines (which were all from small producers in lesser known regions), I flew back to Chile with a bottle of the Tenuta (unfortunately corked!) and a brillant Austrian Pinot Gris from Kracher vineyards in Neusiedler See, located on the border of Hungary.
This past weekend, a romp in the Mercado Central on Saturday to satisfy a hankering for shellfish, triggered my memory that this bottle was still patiently resting in my wine cava. The time had come to give my palate an education in Austrian Pinot Gris.
On the pairing menu was a perennial favorite in Chile, Machas a la Parmesana, razor clams baked on the half shell with a touch of wine, butter, and Parmesan cheese. I substituted the Parmesan with an aged goat cheese which I thought would work better with the wine.
My monger also had gotten shiny black mussels that morning from the pristine fjords of Patagonia so I gave in and bought a kilo. Walking home, I planned out the mussels’ in my mind, starting with my favorite mussel dish, Thai Green Curry Mussels. Discarded, the wine may not appreciate the fire. By the time I entered my front door, I had settled on mussels in a saffron-tomato broth, subtle and aromatic.
Tasting Notes: Weinlaubenhof Kracher “Illmitz” 2006 Pinot Gris
We chilled this below normal for a Pinot Gris, more like a Sauvignon Blanc, to 6-8 C/35-40 F, as I wanted to see how the temperature evolved in the glass. My best was that Austrian whites had a high acidity that would shine with a slightly cooler starting point. The experiment worked well. As it warmed up, the aromas developed but the alcohol level also became more protagonistic.
On the nose, I got a lot of white peaches, apples, and pears with little to no barrel, maybe a whiff of vanilla but very, very faint. In the mouth, the wine burst with a marked mineral component and beautiful acidity that drove the flavor forward. I also sensed a slightly spicy note towards the end. The flavor was intense and focused (maybe like the winemaker? I would be willing to bet so…one reflects the other). I sensed a little chalkiness, perhaps from the minerals, and wondered what the soils where like where these grapes grow.
The volume of this wine was striking—nothing like an Alsacian Pinot Gris, much sturdier. It was fresh yet structured enough to hold the 13.5% alcohol.
Overall impressions: Unusual grape and growing area. I loved the intensity, acidity, and flavors. Great value makes it highly attractive.
This retails for US$14-17 and is available in the US (info below). I would absolutely buy this again and would recommend trying it now that summer has officially kicked off in the Northern Hemisphere with seafood. My only regret was not having another bottle!
Food/wine pairing notes:
This wine was gorgeous with the razor clams. The peak sweetness of the tender clams played up the fruit and the tangy goat cheese really brought out the dry, mineral component. I think I may have actually experienced umami with this combination.
The mussels were so succulent I didn’t want to see the bottom of the dish. Both my husband and I licked each shell clean of the tiny bits of onion, tomato, and garlic. The stock was rich, made of wine, chicken stock, a squeeze of lemon, a dab of curry powder, touch of butter. It was so flavorful that the wine actually worked as a refreshing counterpoint and palate cleanser between each spoonful. The dish was slightly more powerful than I had envisioned but also worked beautifully.
Where to find it:
Chicago: www.juicywine.com or Importer Vin Divino, Ltd.
NY: www.drinkupny.com ; Grapes of Norwalk in CT www.grapeswine.com
Or just Google “Illmitz + Pinot Gris” to see other retailers.
