Santiago
Nestled in a valley surrounded by the coastal range and the snow-covered Andes, Santiago is Chile’s modern capital full of verdant parks and neighborhoods from the historic centro and iconic Plaza de Armas to the leafy indie barrio of Lastarria, the hipster design district of Barrio Italia, the shiny skyscrapers of the financial district and the swish upscale neighborhoods to the east.
Once merely a stop to farther-flung destinations like Easter Island, Patagonia or the Atacama Desert, today, the Chilean capital is a happening place that merits at least a few days exploration. A burgeoning cultural scene is booming with local chefs pushing the envelope around native Chilean ingredients. A plethora of cool wine bars showcase the myriad of Chilean terroir. Art galleries highlight up-and-coming artists, and well-curated designers have incorporated uniquely Chilean materials.
Add to this that the metropolis is just a short drive from hiking and skiing in the Andes, an hour to the Pacific Coast, and the jumping off point for nearly half-a-dozen wine regions and you get a sense why Santiago has become a world-class destination in South America.
Ingredients
Santiago has a longstanding tradition of sourcing its produce the colorful daily fresh markets found across the city so a visit to the wholesale market is mandatory to understand the soul of Chilean cuisine. Here, vendors hawk the freshest seasonal fruits and vegetables, local cheeses, a plethora of meats, mounds of spices like merkén and old-school eateries pump out Chilean classics like sweet corn tamales and avocado-laden sandwiches. Local chefs have spearheaded a farm-to-table movement to showcase the unique ingredients hailing from Chile’s 38 latitudes from north south and wine bars showcase the regionality of valleys studding the country from north to south.
Things We Love
The Marvelous “Centro”: The downtown area is the historical heart of the city and the place to get an authentic taste of Santiago’s soul. Starting in the iconic Plaza de Armas, surrounded by stately buildings like the colonial cathedral and Neoclassical post office, this is the point from which all mileage in Chile is measured. Lined by handsome arcades, fountains, sculptures, and palm trees, the pedestrian walkways extend towards the gargantuan Alameda, the main drag. The centro is constant action and locals stop off to sip cafe in coffee bars. We love the “Chile Antes de Chile” room in the Pre-Colombian Art museum, which dates back to the early days of the Republic. Landmarks like La Moneda, the Chilean government palace, formerly the national mint, are among the finest examples of colonial architecture in Chile with the largest flag in Chile flying over Constitucion Plaza.
A Stroll in Parque Forestal: Weekends in Santiago have a delightfully languid pace. Lunches start mid-afternoon and can stretch for hours into the afternoon with the sobremesa and necessarily needing a walk afterwards. We love a stroll in the leafy Parque Forestal, one of the city’s green Grand Dames dating back over a century. There are games and puppet shows for the kids, vendors selling sweet popcorn and churros, families soaking up the sun in the grass, and nearly everyone has an ice cream cone in hand. Chileans are lovers of decadent ice cream and around the barrio just happen to some of the city’s best addresses to indulge. Hint: try the local nutty-tasting lucuma flavor.
Knocking around Barrio Italia: Santiago’s bohemian design district was born of a blue collar neighborhood with low-slung brick buildings from the early 20th century and many charming cites, interior corridors and plazas, once lined by homes that have become miniature shopping arcade lined with cool boutiques. Trendy designers and artisans have flocked to the area to set up their ateliers from bookstores to enamelware (making a comeback), bean-to-bar chocolate, antique collecting, shoes, and much more. Picturesque cafes and empanada joints intermingle and the quiet streets are perfect for :an afternoon of sauntering.
and the meaningful
Hotels
Boutique Hotel Le Rêve
Centrally located yet off a quiet street in the heart of bustling Providencia, this petit four-story townhouse feels more like you are visiting a well-to-do friend in Santiago rather than a hotel. Settle into the large living room/library area (which doubles as the breakfast nook), tastefully adorned with porcelain vases and bookshelves lined with travel titles. The attractive French doors open onto a pebbled courtyard shaded by a centennial avocado tree, where afternoon tea is served.
Hotel Magnolia
In the heart of the city, drop your bags at the Hotel Magnolia, originally built in 1929 as a private mansion. A quirky mix of old and new, following an arduous renovation, three new floors blend with the hotel’s 1920 antique façade, stained glass, stunning marble staircases, and harlequin-tiled floors. Guest rooms are stylish and inviting with ample use of Chilean native woods. Views of the neighboring Santa Lucia hill from the chic rooftop terrace are inspiring and the perfect spot to sip a Pisco Sour on a warm evening.
Ritz Carlton Santiago
In the modern, upscale neighborhood of El Golf, the financial district of the city, the recently renovated Ritz Carlton is within walking distance of great restaurants and steps away from the ultra modern metro. The new rooms are ample and modern with plush beds and luxurious bathrooms. The spa indulges tired travelers in dazzling reflexology and Shiatsu massages. Their dining at the Ritz has gotten new inspiration on its menu and décor with clean lines and coolness.
