Nestled in Northern California an hour north of San Francisco, the Napa Valley is renowned worldwide for its exceptional wines and picturesque landscapes. Spanning approximately 30 miles long and 5 miles wide, this verdant region boasts over 400 wineries. The Mediterranean climate and diverse soils create ideal conditions for growing premium wine grapes, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, although in the southern part of Napa known as Carneros, there is excellent Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and even Cabernet Franc in some parts!
Beyond viticulture, Napa Valley is all about its farm-to-table cuisine, luxury resorts, and outdoor activities. Dating back to the 1830s, though, Napa feels a bit like Mediterranean Chile, Tuscany, and very California.
And while Napa is most certainly very much about wine, there are many other things happening!! Given the millions of visitors coming, we thought we’d share a local foodie/somm’s POV since these tips may serve you. Vamos….let’s go…
#1 Pick your season wisely
We cannot emphasize this enough. Napa Valley receives millions of visitors each year and the majority are during summer and harvest in the fall. For the record…summer is the hottest time to visit and HARVEST IS THE WORST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT. It’s fire season, winemakers are not available (umm, they have to harvest), everything is slammed with visitors, restaurants are collapsed. Moral of the story–come off-season or shoulder season. I love winter, particularly February-March when the mustard is in bloom up until Spring before Memorial Day. Napa is also gorgeous after harvest in early November when the vineyards change color. It depends on what you envision doing, if you want to be cozy or outdoorsy.
#2 Pick your days of the week even more wisely
Weekends in Napa…they sound super sexy, while logistically they tend to be a nightmare. Why??? We have San Francisco and Silicon Valley in two hours driving distance and LA/SoCal a short flight away. The lure is real. Many of the best vintners/wineries don’t open on the weekend or at least nobody on the winemaking team is around (yes, they have lives). The competition for restaurant reservations is fierce (along with the open wineries and any spa appointments at your luxury hotels). And just when you think you escaped the city for the peaceful countryside, be prepared for the worst traffic. I remember that time before the weekend dinner rush near Yountville…45 minutes in a total standstill in the middle of seemingly nowhere. Buck the trend here, friends, and do what everyone else doesn’t do–book your stay from Monday-Thursday and you’ll be in travel nirvana.
#3 Pick your base in the Valley carefully
Napa is like a bowling alley 30-odd miles long between two mountain ranges, the Mayacamas and the Vaca Mountains. There are basically two ways to get up (and down) the Valley–on Route 29 or the Silverado Trail. Both are (mostly) single lane roads and somewhat windy (particularly Silverado). Many people don’t realize that getting from Napa (town) up to Calistoga is 45 minutes on an easy traffic day. Or that Calistoga, where hotels like Solage, Auberge, Meadowwood and the Four Seasons are located, is closer to Healdsburg (foodie capital of Sonoma) than Napa. Likewise, if you base in southern Carneros where the newish Auberge (Stanly Ranch) opened, you will be closer to San Francisco (great for transfers in/out), Sonoma (town), and less trafficked parts of the valley like Coombsville (AMAZING appellation) and Mt. Veeder. Which brings me to the next point…
#4 Yountville is touristy although well-located
You can love me or hate me for this comment…it’s real. Yountville is built for hospitality and as a town has gone from a local village to one being centered around swanky hotels and fine dining. In fact, they had to close the elementary school due to lack of students. Now I’m not saying it’s not adorable, cute, charming, or that I don’t love walking through the French Laundry gardens, having margaritas at Thomas Keller’s taco joint, or getting croissants at dawn at Bouchon Bakery and watching the hot air balloons take off…because it is ALL that. However, the focus has clearly moved to visitors because of its strategic position mid-valley. It simply does not have the authentic feel of towns like St. Helena, downtown Napa, or even Calistoga. Just know if you go and embrace the luxe, resort(y) vibe if you decide to base there.
#5 Get a driver
Former House Speaker Nancy Pelosi’s husband got a DUI in Napa last year and I thought the behavior was inexcusable–and unfortunately common on many weekends here. People, if you are going to taste wine in any form and don’t plan on spitting ALL OF IT, either have a designated driver or get a paid driver (ahem, chauffeur). Period. End of story.
#5 Book everything FAR IN ADVANCE
Napa is popular even if you adhere to the off-season and mid-week rules so successful planning means having all your dining and wine tasting ducks in order months in advance. If you are trying to have milestone meals at The French Laundry and/or Kenzo, both Michelin star experiences, first get the dinner reservation(s) secured and THEN plan the rest of your trip–this includes hotel and air. This is the only way to avoid getting everything lined up and then finding out reservations are impossible and no amount of string-pulling will work. Both TFL & Kenzo open reservations on the first of the month for the following month at 9am local time and release only a handful of tables. Imagine everyone jockeying for those few tables. You need to have a clear date (remember mid-week = better probability), a calendar reminder, your credit card memorized, and all cookies/cache cleared on your computer to be on your top booking game…and even then, say a little prayer.
#6 Here are a few of our favorite things to do living here
–A sunny warm spring / summer lunch (or early dinner) on the terrace surrounded by vineyards at Don Giovanni Bistro. Favorites are octopus salad and burrata pizza although everything is tasty.
–Stroll the riverwalk in downtown Napa (yes there is a river! And a boat dock!) and stop at Angele for a simple, classy French meal with champagne, or taste some valley wines at Compline restaurant (warning: the duck fat fries are evil).
–Take a hike in the tucked away Westwood Hills in the Brown’s Valley area to get an eagle’s view of Napa. At the top, you can see the whole way to the San Pablo Bay and even San Francisco on a clear day.
–The big Farmer Market day is Saturday. Some days we go to Oxbow for a sweet treat (me, an almond milk latte thanks) at Model Bakery; others we just shop for produce and let the kids get doughnuts (just look for the 40-person deep line).
–Walk Main Street St. Helena. It’s Americana chic and cuteness at its finest. I love Acres concept store for fun home, tableware, and kitchen items, No|Ma for a stylish coffee, Cook for a low key pasta lunch. You can stop for to-go coffee in the retro Gas Station (or just take selfies for Instagram). Nearby Sunshine Foods is like a gourmet Napa/Sonoma-centric version of Whole Foods and super local (you may run into local winemakers in the aisles). Your foodie mind will be blown!
-Put on your favorite tunes and take the back roads to Sonoma TOWN via Old Sonoma road to route 12, which is only fifteen minutes from Napa TOWN. The rolling hills studded with vines are so scenic. If you have kids, spend a morning at the old school Traintown (get there early), stop by the original (and still very cute) Williams & Sonoma shop (if you have a thing for iconic kitchen stores…), have a spectacular farm-to-table brunch at Valley on the town square, or if you are itching for authentic Mexican (i.e. mole), El Molino is your spot..
I can go on about the food trucks, more walks with views (Stanly Lane, Skyline park, Alston Park), my favorite scenic drives into the hills (Oakville Grade not for the faint of heart), where to soak in a mud bath, why I find Gott’s Roadside ho-hum and oh, winery visits…right…WINE. That’s the whole point??!! Well, kinda. You see, Napa has lots of things that are NOT JUST WINE!
Friends, there are too many wineries to even start in this note. It’s taken time to understand the terroir, the producers, and hone those which are worth visiting, many of which are small and not your usual suspects nor experiences, or at least the way we like to set things up.
As you can see, local Napa does exist if you scratch deeper. An entire wine industry and the communities that support are based here. It’s a beautiful place to call home. If you need our help curating a special trip or milestone celebration to the region, or procuring those hard to get visits (Harlan, Colgin, etc.…), contact us to make it happen.
Need more inspiration? We also did a podcast earlier this year which you can listen HERE.
