A Slice of the South in Santiago

Chile, like a long string bean, extends over 2,600 miles from north to south, or 17º S- 56º S at Cape Horn. The regionality of the country’s ingredients is staggering. In the north, Andean and Peruvian staples like quinoa and chuño, freeze-dried potatoes; olives from Azapa; papayas from La Serena; and rich shellfish like scallops. In Magallanes where the continent ends, delicious meats like king crab, Patagonian toothfish (mero) hail from the icy southern waters as does grass fed lamb from the windy grasslands. In the central cradle, known as the Valle Central, our home is one of the few Mediterranean climates in the World, with a cornucopia of fresh produce, cheese, olive oils, seafood, and meats.

Twelve hours south of Santiago in the rainy, lush lake district, rolling green pastures, native forests, and quaint German farms dot the landscape. This area, generally referred to by Chileans as the “sur”, usually conjures up a nostalgic sigh followed by a flash back of a German onces, tea, with kuchen; perhaps feasting on a curanto; or just a blur of that inspiring verdant, bucolic landscape. Much of Chile’s dairy and meat production is concentrated from Osorno down to Puerto Varas, where cows seem to outnumber humans. The area was settled in the 1800s by the Germans and as you meander the curvy back roads along the lake shores, old Bavarian-looking farms house craggy, petit apple orchards. Natural fences are murta and blackberry bushes. Even in the peak of summer, a brief sprinkle and the fresh, cool air is totally invigorating.

In February, I went on a foodie expedition with my local buddy, long time Puerto Varas expat Vicki Johnson, to scout the best artisan beers like Colonos; delicious homemade German sausages from Nueva Branau; rich, cheeses from the little port on Lake Llanquihue known as Puerto Octay; roasted wild boar; hard (apple) cider, delicious chocolates from her shop in downtown Puerto Varas, and murta, fresh gooseberries, everywhere. There’s something seductive about the south. Maybe it’s the clean air. The gorgeous emerald green countryside and shimmering lakes. The eternal smell of a warming fire burning. Or the friendly people. Santiago seems, thankfully, a world away when I am there.

After returning home, I yearned intensely for those Southern flavors. Apparently the universe was listening. On Friday afternoon, coming back from running errands around the Plaza de Armas, I just happened to stumble upon a brand new delicatessen, Lecker, bringing the flavors of the South to Santiago.

Opened by Osorno native Heidi Kramm Marty, lecker in German means “delicious” or “tasty”. Most certainly, she has captured the spirit of this business in its name. This deli is a direct artery to the south.
I first noticed they stock Nueva Branau products: kassler, a succulent sliced smoked pork; sausages from morcilla to knockworst; costillar ahumado, smoked ribs. They also have wild boar salame from La Reconquista and the full line of Puerto Octay dairy from a Swiss style cream cheese to the classic smoked cheese and ethereal butter. A specialty hard-to-find is the manjar blanco, the true milk caramel, fully white, not camel-colored. Jams abound with unique flavors like strawberries and Rosemary; pears in ulmo Honey, a southern tree; Araucaria pine nuts with red Peppers; and the indigenous murta, a type of gooseberry.

The best part?, It’s only three blocks from my apartment, although I would go regardless of location. Ahh finally, a true slice of the south in the Santiago.