Ok, I have to admit. After ten years here, this is the first winter where I am NOT cold. And it’s the coldest winter on record yet. Let me explain.
The Central Valley of Chile, where Santiago is located, is part of a lovely Mediterranean climate. Most of the year, we enjoy freakishly great weather with a lot of sunshine, mild temperatures, and low humidity. When I first moved here, I snickered at the winter temperatures. “Oh, that’s so not cold”, I would say, citing the 57-60F highs during the day, with sunshine, and night time temperatures hovering around freezing. I mean, that’s been the weather forecast in Fife, Scotland during the British Open this past weekend. “Darn”, I thought, “It doesn’t even snow.” Well, my naive East Coast snow bunny self soon wised up to the reality of winter in Chile. What I had NOT anticipated was the lack of preparation for anything other than warm weather here.
Santiaguinos in particular seem to be in denial about the cold. They love to complain about how cold it is, particularly in the frosty mornings, but most are unwilling to spend the lucas, money, meant to properly heat a space. Most rely on very dangerous space heaters fueled by propane gas to temporarily heat one room of the house. Just like in parts of Australia and New Zealand, with a similar climate, central heating is not the rule here unless you installed it in your new or remodeled home, work in modern office building, or are staying in a nice hotel. In the countryside, folks have wonderful heating by wood, but in the capital that’s not permitted (due to pollution).
So while the Mercury may read like a fine temperature, your body temperature is a perpetual refrigerator. Just imagine every place you go is the same temperature inside and out. You are never really get warm except for being in the shower, drinking tea or soup, or sitting with a hot water bottle. It’s this subtle yet totally pervasive, low grade, my-feet-are-freaking-ice-cubes all the time. And gets really old.
And people don’t really dress for the weather either. While many have wool overcoats, the thick fishermen’s sweaters are more in the south. In Santiago, they tend to layer, and layer some more (up to 3-4 thin sweaters). When I was in the US at Christmas with snow and highs in the 20s F, I bought a parka. I swore I would never, ever have a reason to use it in Santiago. Boy, was I wrong. I use it all the the time. I am never cold outside anymore. And if I am at a party where the hosts are stingy on the heat, instant blanket.
The parka along with our new apartment, which does have glorious central heating and double thermal pane glass, has turned winter into a breeze. While, it doesn’t really make me want to purée a batch of gazpacho, I can hack it now with minimal griping.
For those freezin’ their buns off in Santiago, skiiers or travelers, headed south, here are some tips to help you pull through like a champ. Seriously, it’s not that bad! Preparation, preparation.
Layer, Layer, Layer
Santiago has huge temperature oscillation year-round, one of the reasons it is so great for growing grapes. Average temperature spreads are around 20-25 degrees F with the lowest around 4-5am and highest at 2-3pm. To give you an idea, as I look out my window today, they are calling for a high of 59F with sunny skies. That’s at 2pm. Right now, it feels more like 40F with a chilly breeze and was 29F when I got up to workout at 6am. So layer, layer, layer. You need to peel off clothing as it warms up; and put then the layers back on as the sun goes down.
Water Bottles are Your New Bedtime Companion
These are so convenient when you don’t want to turn on the heat for a wee chill, have had your tea, and need a way to get warm. Or just put one in your bed before retiring at night. It is soooo toasty. They sell them at any pharmacy. Just add very hot (not boiling) water with care. My mother-in-law even knit little sweaters for them since the rubber was burning my skin.
Hat, gloves, scarf, warm socks
This may seem redundant to mention but I find it is necessary, particularly the bit about the socks. I wear ski socks in my cowboy boots, hiking boots, or clogs. Cold feet equals cold body. Hats are also a great way to insulate from heat loss and don’t take up a lot of space.
Eat What the Locals Eat
This is the time of year for seasonal favorite dishes that are soupy in nature and designed to soothe your cold body. They actually help raise your body temperature and make the most of the limited produce in the region (much of ours comes from the Northern Azapa valley on the border with Peru). Try the popular cazuela, made from chicken, turkey, or beef, in a rich stock with chunks of pumpkin, potato, green beans, and rice. Soul-warming. I also love the Valdiviano, another soup made with roast beef shredded in a savory beef stock with chunks of potato, egg, and parsley. Finally, Chileans are legume lovers and consume lots of them (dried) at this time of year. Try the homey lentils; or tomato-laden chickpeas with chorizo on top; or every household’s renditions of beans–from Great Northern to borlotti, and many heirloom varieties like Juanita or Fresa without translation. My maid makes them with an oniony base and slow cooks them with stock and pumpkin. Yummy!
Have your Tea
People here love tea, so why not join them say 5-6 times a day for an aguita, herbal tea (no caffeine). This tradition steeps fresh herbs, or dried in sachets, like mint, chamomile, lemon balm, or the native boldo. Good for your stomach and really does warm you up.
Sweat it Out
Believe it or not, in Santiago there’s a tradition of hammams, Turkish Steam Baths and Sauna. I got to detox on a regular basis, kick a cold, or just relax. It is also great for your skin to purge some of the smog (although this year has been miraculously not-so-smoggy). I love Baños Miraflores in the downtown. Fifty years and counting, these baths are simple yet spick-and-span–and very economical. Men and Women are separated and it is a bit of a ritual to spend an afternoon sweating. Ahh, I cannot wait till my turn again tomorrow.
Get up to the Snow
Seriously, if you’re gonna be here in winter, you HAVE to go skiing. Ski resorts like Valle Nevado and El Colorado are only 45-60 minutes from Santiago. On sunny, clear days, I can see the chairlifts of Farellones (the first ski center on the way up into the Andes) with a bare eye. Or head up to the downhill paradise at the base of Aconcagua, Portillo. Just remember that any rain becomes snow with elevation and the temperature goes down as you go up. And for the indulgent, you CAN ski in the morning and have a pisco sour in Viña del Mar at sunset. I mean really, where else can you do that?
Stay warm! September, and the onset of Spring, is only six weeks away.
Thanks to Marco and Armando for the pics of Santiago and Valle Nevado.
