Glorious Produce: The fertile Central Valley north and south of Santiago pumps out tons of fresh produce year round. In Santiago alone there are 400 farmers markets in addition to central depots like Lo Valledor and the Vega Central. In all the cities and towns, there is always a market hawking the freshest fruits and veggies at HALF the price of any supermarket. We are so spoiled here to have such abundant food coming from the countryside. The variety of foods is staggering: cherries, apricots, asparagus, strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, Chilean papayas, lucuma, apples, lemons, oranges, grapefruit, fresh artichokes, figs, chard, corn, half a dozen types of tomatoes, a dozen types of avocado, zucchini, eggplant, okra, peppers, chilies, faba beans, sweet potato, tons of greens from watercress to wild arugula and dandelion, the list is endless. Needless to say, having a whole foods diet here is pretty easy.
Hilly Topography: I love the contours of the rolling hills of the coastal mountains and Andean foot hills. Each bend in a road reveals a new micro valley (hence, all the good wine!). In the winter and spring, the hills turn emerald green with the rain. By February and March, the end of summer, they have turned a toasty color of caramel from the lack of rain. Last year in California as we drove from LA to Napa, we were blown away by the similarities in the topography of the California coast and Chile. Especially around San Luis Obispo, we could have sworn we were in the San Antonio valley and coast.
Temperature Oscillation: It may hit 95F at 4pm when the mercury is at its hottest in the summer time but by 10pm, the temperature will have plummeted to 55F. Perfect weather for sleeping with a soft comforter and an open window. It always, always cools off . This is one of the reasons for the great wines in Chile–and also why you must layer, layer, layer when dressing since you will put on and take off clothing depending on the time of day.
No Humidity: Growing up in eastern Pennsylvania, mugginess was part of the summer equation. I never really noticed it since A/C is a way of life. Upon arriving in Chile, I could hardly believe how comfortable it was to live in a climate with little to no humidity (minus some dry skin on occasion). Delightful in a word. Most Chileans who grow up in Santiago do not handle heat and humidity well. When my husband and I have been in Brazil or Florida in the summer, he just dies. The only way to beat the heat is to head into the A/C or strip down to a swimsuit. Not the case in Chile, just find some shade and instantly 10 degrees less.
Snow is Optional: Ok, I will admit it. I am so over cold winters and living in snow. As much as I am visualizing snow on Christmas Eve for our upcoming trip to the US (a nostalgic thing), the thought of shoveling, driving, and freezing every time I walk outside, umm, no thanks. My blood has gotten thin living down here and I like warmer weather. Even in the winter in Chile, it rarely drops below 50 for the day time high even though there’s abundant snow in the mountains. So if you want to play in the snow, all you do is go “up”.
No Bugs: Yes, that’s right. No bugs. That’s why you will hardly ever see screens in the Central valley. With the exception of some annoying flies and the occasional bee, you don’t see too many flying insects. A good fly swatter is essential.
Spring: One of my favorite times of year, the trees and orchards blossom into beautiful shades of white, pink, and fuscia, with colorful wildflowers like California poppies dotting the roadsides. The hills are still green from the winter rains, the sun feels a little warmer, the air smells fresh and sweet, birds begin to sing their praises, and asparagus and artichokes (quite possibly my favorite veggies) start to flood the markets.
Summer: Delicious in a word. The hot days, cool nights, and ample sunshine are just exquisite. I never, ever want to travel too far during the summers, especially since Santiago slows down and the traffic diminishes. It is balmy, breezy, and just gorgeous. Also the estación de la fruta, fruit season, when melons, berries, cherries, nectarines, and peaches abound. Literally on every Chilean table for dessert is a simple, tempting fruit platter.
Fall: I love fall because of two things: grape harvest in the vineyards and figs. Oh, those figs! Fig trees are in many backyards in Chile and in March yield tiny, sweet, earthy fruit that I make into my famous chutney, grill, stuff and roast with goat cheese, wrap in Serrano ham. As the harvest comes starts in wine country, the vines turn deep shades of gold and crimson red and the air fills with the sweet, musky aromas of wine fermentation. The light seems to become more golden too.
Winter: Winter is always hard for me because I miss the light. Short days feel like prison! In Chile however, winter means rain and I adore rainy days. I love sloshing in my Patagonia rain gear to the markets, then coming home to make a soothing cazuela, or pop open a delicious, soul warming Cabernet. After the rain, the Andes look so vibrant in freshly colored snow and the city air reminds me of the South with cool, fresh scents of invigorating eucalyptus and pine.
While Santiago and the Central Valley are amazing to visit year round (we have lots of Texan clients who love to beat the heat in July/August), other parts of Chile are ideal. Although the days may be shorter, in places like Patagonia, the winds stop and sun shines so you can do excursions in kayak, horseback riding on snowy mountains, and while in the Torres del Paine, you feel like you OWN the park. Atacama is sunshine year round as is Mendoza. But take me out of my Mediterranean climate–never. Maybe just a temporary relocation to California, Italy, Spain, South Africa, Greece, or Turkey.
