I am sitting like a lizard in the warm afternoon sunshine, wrapped in an alpaca wool shawl on a scenic terrace overlooking the Apalta wine appellation and volcanoes of the Andes. The chilly morning rain has moved out and there’s not a cloud in the sky. In the distance, there’s a shrill call of a queltehue, a southern lapwing, one of the most common birds in the Chilean countryside and the murmur of voices from the nearby lodge. I am enjoying a moment to myself to reboot after a very early arrival from Buenos Aires this morning.

After touching down, I made a beeline to Clos Apalta Residence, a stunning hotel property in the heart of the Colchagua Wine Valley, 2.5 hours south of Santiago. While Clos Apalta is renowned for its wine, and the stunning gravity flow winery is certainly iconic, I am here to stay in the newish, ultra-luxurious villas, added as an extension to the existing four vineyard casitas (also freshly renovated).

After a very leisurely check-in and lunch, I climb aboard the golf cart ushering people and luggage up and down the steep hillside to/from the villas (note to self: just walk next time, or hold on tightly). Each villa (and casita) is named for one of the grape varieties grown in the vineyard. Fittingly, I am assigned Grenache, as if they knew my affinity for that variety!

Entering the villa, it immediately feels like an opulent treehouse. The view opens completely and is located mid-slope right above the center of the vineyards. The architecture is completely integrated into the hillside so you feel the forest yet seem to be floating just above it. The picture windows have encompassing vistas of the surrounding hillsides (awash with wild mustard at this time of year), the valley floor, and the Andes. There’s a panoramic view from every single vantage point (living, bedroom, bathroom) and a wraparound veranda to enjoy it outside, too. Even the individual vanities in the spa-like bathroom mirror the landscape. And then there’s the ‘hall of mirrors’, an enormous closet area with floor-to-ceiling infinity mirrors that makes getting dressed so fun and an excuse to indulge in endless selfies…or at least I did that!

Another thing to love? The living room is completely detached from the master bedroom and bathroom so if you need to work, make a phone call, or wake up in the middle of night or really early in the morning for a coffee, it doesn’t bother your significant other or travel partner. And at 1600 square feet (148m2), the villa definitely feels like a private hillside getaway where you can easily disappear for as long as you want, surfacing only to be fed and wined in the main lodge as needed (breakfast can be delivered and served in your villa upon request, too).

Following a short siesta, I manage to peel myself away from the villa. I skip the winery tour, which while a true architectural feat everyone should see at least once, I have visited probably 100 times since its 2005 inauguration. Instead, I meet with their resident sommelier to taste through a few vintages of the Clos Apalta wine by the fireplace.

Founded by Alexandre Marnier (of the Gran Marnier family), Clos Apalta’s icon wine has consistently scored 100 points for multiple vintages and is firmly established as one of Chile’s most acclaimed red wines on the icon level. The project has grown to include other wines within the portfolio, which are tasted in the context of meals, although Clos Apalta continues to be the hallmark wine. As we taste through the line up, I realize this is the kind of wine I don’t gravitate to very much anymore as my palate has veered more in the champagne-white wine-Burgundy-esque red direction. It’s big, dense, and chewy and reaches 15% alcohol. The style is very Michel Rolland (their wine advisor) and, for my palate at least, has this bonbon quality from the concentration and use of new oak that immediately makes the vintages with some age on them (like 7-10 years) more approachable.

While Clos Apalta as a project was initially built as the ‘home’ to make the namesake wine, today the focus is a complete hospitality experience and is part of the Relais & Chateaux group. Chef Leonel Diaz helms the kitchen and is a Colchagua native leveraging much of what is sourced from the property’s extensive vegetable garden to create the menu along with products from the local Santa Cruz feria (farmers market) or other small producers in the valley. While his perspective is acutely local and Chilean in many flavor combinations, there’s a consistent French flair (and undertone) that cuts across not only the food but the aesthetics as well. It’s that kind of old world touch of understated elegance and sophistication that feels rooted in a clear vision and noble materials.
The next morning, after a good night’s sleep, I head out on a long vineyard walk to get fresh air before the most scenic pilates workout ever. There’s a villa solely dedicated as a gym, complete with dry and Turkish saunas! Fortunately, I can take my time since there is nothing on the agenda this morning…what a godsend in a place like this!

For guests staying at Clos Apalta, the property is strategically located within the Colchagua Valley so many winery visits and anchor dining, like Francis Mallmann’s Fuegos de Apalta, are very close by. Of course, as tempting as it may be to run around the valley and conquer tasting as many wines as humanly possible (and certainly one day could be dedicated to that…), I think this is the kind of place to savor, rest, and enjoy just being there. It’s so incredibly exquisite in every way!

After a fabulous champagne brunch, before moving on to my next stop, I did just that. I absorbed as much of those glorious views of the Chilean countryside as I could. Having spent over half my life in Chile, the imagen (image) of the Andes and the green valley floor will be forever etched in my memory — and soul. I was, in essence, filling my tank with nature and beauty for the road.

Definitely worth a few days detour from Santiago, or even a trip from afar, too.

The post Just back from… Clos Apalta Residence in Chile appeared first on Liz Caskey Culinary and Wine Experiences.

In this episode of ‘In Search of Flavor,’ Liz chats with renowned wine writer and wine editor of Food & Wine Magazine, Ray Isle, to discuss his recent book “The World in a Wine Glass” and his journey from academia to becoming a prominent figure in wine journalism. Ray shares his insights on sustainable, organic, and biodynamic wine practices, the evolving wine industry, and the timeless appeal of wine amidst modern challenges such as cocktails and cannabis. He discusses the emphasis on quality over mass production and the cultural importance of wine and offers some insights as to how consumers can start to understand the difference between organic, biodynamic, natural and terroir wines.Ray also highlights storytelling in wine writing and the significance of knowing your wine producers.

In this episode we talk about:

• From Academia to Wine Writing
• Evolution of Wine at Food & Wine Magazine
• The Inspiration Behind ‘The World in a Wine Glass’
• Understanding Sustainable Wine Terminology
• How He Chose the Wine Producers in ‘The World in a Wine Glass’
• The Human Element & Storytelling in Winemaking
• Exploring Emerging Wine Regions around the world (ie not Italy or France)
• The Future of Wine and Its Challenges
• Finding and Enjoying Affordable Quality Wines, some tips!
• What’s Next for Ray

Resources:
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/rayisle/

Websites: https://www.foodandwine.com/author/ray-isle
https://rayisle.com/

The post IN SEARCH OF FLAVOR, EPISODE 40: Ray Isle on Sustainability & The Human Element in Wine appeared first on Liz Caskey Culinary and Wine Experiences.

Beyond viticulture, Napa Valley is all about its farm-to-table cuisine, luxury resorts, and outdoor activities. Dating back to the 1830s, though, Napa feels a bit like Mediterranean Chile, Tuscany, and very California.

And while Napa is most certainly very much about wine, there are many other things happening!! Given the millions of visitors coming, we thought we’d share a local foodie/somm’s POV since these tips may serve you. Vamos….let’s go…

#1 Pick your season wisely
We cannot emphasize this enough. Napa Valley receives millions of visitors each year and the majority are during summer and harvest in the fall. For the record…summer is the hottest time to visit and HARVEST IS THE WORST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT. It’s fire season, winemakers are not available (umm, they have to harvest), everything is slammed with visitors, restaurants are collapsed. Moral of the story–come off-season or shoulder season. I love winter, particularly February-March when the mustard is in bloom up until Spring before Memorial Day. Napa is also gorgeous after harvest in early November when the vineyards change color. It depends on what you envision doing, if you want to be cozy or outdoorsy.

#2 Pick your days of the week even more wisely
Weekends in Napa…they sound super sexy, while logistically they tend to be a nightmare. Why??? We have San Francisco and Silicon Valley in two hours driving distance and LA/SoCal a short flight away. The lure is real. Many of the best vintners/wineries don’t open on the weekend or at least nobody on the winemaking team is around (yes, they have lives). The competition for restaurant reservations is fierce (along with the open wineries and any spa appointments at your luxury hotels). And just when you think you escaped the city for the peaceful countryside, be prepared for the worst traffic. I remember that time before the weekend dinner rush near Yountville…45 minutes in a total standstill in the middle of seemingly nowhere. Buck the trend here, friends, and do what everyone else doesn’t do–book your stay from Monday-Thursday and you’ll be in travel nirvana.

#3 Pick your base in the Valley carefully
Napa is like a bowling alley 30-odd miles long between two mountain ranges, the Mayacamas and the Vaca Mountains. There are basically two ways to get up (and down) the Valley–on Route 29 or the Silverado Trail. Both are (mostly) single lane roads and somewhat windy (particularly Silverado). Many people don’t realize that getting from Napa (town) up to Calistoga is 45 minutes on an easy traffic day. Or that Calistoga, where hotels like Solage, Auberge, Meadowwood and the Four Seasons are located, is closer to Healdsburg (foodie capital of Sonoma) than Napa. Likewise, if you base in southern Carneros where the newish Auberge (Stanly Ranch) opened, you will be closer to San Francisco (great for transfers in/out), Sonoma (town), and less trafficked parts of the valley like Coombsville (AMAZING appellation) and Mt. Veeder. Which brings me to the next point…

#4 Yountville is touristy although well-located
You can love me or hate me for this comment…it’s real. Yountville is built for hospitality and as a town has gone from a local village to one being centered around swanky hotels and fine dining. In fact, they had to close the elementary school due to lack of students. Now I’m not saying it’s not adorable, cute, charming, or that I don’t love walking through the French Laundry gardens, having margaritas at Thomas Keller’s taco joint, or getting croissants at dawn at Bouchon Bakery and watching the hot air balloons take off…because it is ALL that. However, the focus has clearly moved to visitors because of its strategic position mid-valley. It simply does not have the authentic feel of towns like St. Helena, downtown Napa, or even Calistoga. Just know if you go and embrace the luxe, resort(y) vibe if you decide to base there.

#5 Get a driver
Former House Speaker Nancy Pelosi’s husband got a DUI in Napa last year and I thought the behavior was inexcusable–and unfortunately common on many weekends here. People, if you are going to taste wine in any form and don’t plan on spitting ALL OF IT, either have a designated driver or get a paid driver (ahem, chauffeur). Period. End of story.

#5 Book everything FAR IN ADVANCE
Napa is popular even if you adhere to the off-season and mid-week rules so successful planning means having all your dining and wine tasting ducks in order months in advance. If you are trying to have milestone meals at The French Laundry and/or Kenzo, both Michelin star experiences, first get the dinner reservation(s) secured and THEN plan the rest of your trip–this includes hotel and air. This is the only way to avoid getting everything lined up and then finding out reservations are impossible and no amount of string-pulling will work. Both TFL & Kenzo open reservations on the first of the month for the following month at 9am local time and release only a handful of tables. Imagine everyone jockeying for those few tables. You need to have a clear date (remember mid-week = better probability), a calendar reminder, your credit card memorized, and all cookies/cache cleared on your computer to be on your top booking game…and even then, say a little prayer.

#6 Here are a few of our favorite things to do living here
–A sunny warm spring / summer lunch (or early dinner) on the terrace surrounded by vineyards at Don Giovanni Bistro. Favorites are octopus salad and burrata pizza although everything is tasty.

–Stroll the riverwalk in downtown Napa (yes there is a river! And a boat dock!) and stop at Angele for a simple, classy French meal with champagne, or taste some valley wines at Compline restaurant (warning: the duck fat fries are evil).

–Take a hike in the tucked away Westwood Hills in the Brown’s Valley area to get an eagle’s view of Napa. At the top, you can see the whole way to the San Pablo Bay and even San Francisco on a clear day.

–The big Farmer Market day is Saturday. Some days we go to Oxbow for a sweet treat (me, an almond milk latte thanks) at Model Bakery; others we just shop for produce and let the kids get doughnuts (just look for the 40-person deep line).

–Walk Main Street St. Helena. It’s Americana chic and cuteness at its finest. I love Acres concept store for fun home, tableware, and kitchen items, No|Ma for a stylish coffee, Cook for a low key pasta lunch. You can stop for to-go coffee in the retro Gas Station (or just take selfies for Instagram). Nearby Sunshine Foods is like a gourmet Napa/Sonoma-centric version of Whole Foods and super local (you may run into local winemakers in the aisles). Your foodie mind will be blown!

-Put on your favorite tunes and take the back roads to Sonoma TOWN via Old Sonoma road to route 12, which is only fifteen minutes from Napa TOWN. The rolling hills studded with vines are so scenic. If you have kids, spend a morning at the old school Traintown (get there early), stop by the original (and still very cute) Williams & Sonoma shop (if you have a thing for iconic kitchen stores…), have a spectacular farm-to-table brunch at Valley on the town square, or if you are itching for authentic Mexican (i.e. mole), El Molino is your spot..

I can go on about the food trucks, more walks with views (Stanly Lane, Skyline park, Alston Park), my favorite scenic drives into the hills (Oakville Grade not for the faint of heart), where to soak in a mud bath, why I find Gott’s Roadside ho-hum and oh, winery visits…right…WINE. That’s the whole point??!! Well, kinda. You see, Napa has lots of things that are NOT JUST WINE!

Friends, there are too many wineries to even start in this note. It’s taken time to understand the terroir, the producers, and hone those which are worth visiting, many of which are small and not your usual suspects nor experiences, or at least the way we like to set things up.

As you can see, local Napa does exist if you scratch deeper. An entire wine industry and the communities that support are based here. It’s a beautiful place to call home. If you need our help curating a special trip or milestone celebration to the region, or procuring those hard to get visits (Harlan, Colgin, etc.…), contact us to make it happen.

Need more inspiration? We also did a podcast earlier this year which you can listen HERE.

The post A Local’s Guide to Visiting Napa appeared first on Liz Caskey Culinary and Wine Experiences.

In this episode we talk about:

• Family history dating back to grandfather establishing winery in Mendoza in 1960s
• The inspiration to focus on high elevation sites like Altamira, La Consulta, Gualtallary
• Understanding the valley’s geology, altitude impacts creating distinct terroir identities
• How he developed Zuccardi’s non-interventionist approach allowing transparent expression of place using concrete
eggs vs. steel to showcase vineyard character
• Why soil mapping via calicatas provides key viticultural insights and how clonal selection and varieties are
suited to high elevation, like chardonnay
• The impetus to make his own Vermouth with a group of friends, which revived theArgentine vermouth tradition
• Zuccardi’s dedication to wine tourism on a larger scale in Mendoza and the Uco Valley
• What the future holds for Argentina, Malbec, wine, and the next generation

Resources:

Instagram: @zuccardivalledeuco
@szuccardi

Website: https://zuccardiwines.com/en/

The post IN SEARCH OF FLAVOR, EPISODE 38: Seba Zuccardi on the Rise of Uco Valley Wines appeared first on Liz Caskey Culinary and Wine Experiences.

In this episode, Ted Lemon, the founder of Littorai Wines and a true master in the language of wine, shares his wisdom, years of experience, and passion for making wines of character that showcase the land. We delve into his journey, whose passion for wine was ignited during his formative years in Burgundy. Ted shares his story of how he stumbled upon winemaking and became one of the few Americans to ever lead a Burgundian estate, and then upon returning to the US, the challenges of launching a self-financed wine business in the (then) undeveloped area of the Sonoma and Mendocino coasts. With a deep reverence for terroir-driven wines and a commitment to minimal intervention, Ted discusses the significance of preserving regional culture through Littorai’s evolution into a biodynamic estate and how this has influenced every aspect of his winemaking process. He also talks about how wine truly is a language and an aesthetic medium, capable of being heard–if we can learn to listen.

In this episode we talk about:

• Ted’s experience in Burgundy and how that shaped his path in wine and a deep love for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay

• The challenges of bootstrapping and growing his wine business and how Littorai grew from sourced fruit to an established, renowned, self-financed, profitable winery

• The important difference between aesthetic and ‘technocratic’ wines and why aesthetic wines as a medium constitute a language

• His decision to transition to biodynamic farming and how that has impacted the health of his vineyards and vision of Littorai

• His pivotal role in helping West Sonoma claim its own appellation and protecting the future of this viticulture region

Resources:
Instagram: @littorai
Website: www.littorai.com

The post In Search of Flavor, Episode 33: Ted Lemon of Littorai Wines on the Language of Wine appeared first on Liz Caskey Culinary and Wine Experiences.

Today we kick off a monthly series into specific wine varieties and regions starting with a look into Chile’s clandestine-turned-flagship grape called Carmenere. Initially it was thought to be extinct after the phylloxera decimated Bordeaux’s vineyards in the 19th century. However, Carmenère was rediscovered in Chile in the mid 1990s and since then has been championed as the country’s iconic variety, much like Malbec has been touted as Argentina’s. In this episode, we delve into the origins of Carmenere, why it has thrived in Chile’s Mediterranean climate, discuss its seductively complex, earthy profile as a red wine, what producers and appellations to know as a consumer, and how to pair it with food, and how its affordability (at any price point from entry level to icon) can earn a place in your rotating wine options or cellar.

In this episode we talk about:

• History and Background of Carmenere
• Origin and discovery of Carmenere grape
• Transitioning the vineyards and where Carmenere grows in Chile
• Specific viticulture of growing Carmenere
• Flavor profiles of the grape and nuances across regions
• Chileans producers of Carmenere at all price points
• What to eat, and pair with Carmenere

Resources:
Instagram: @lccwe, @lizcaskey77
Website: www.lizcaskey.com
Our cookbook: https://lizcaskey.com/cookbook/

The post In Search of Flavor, Episode 32: Carmenere – Chile’s Clandestine-Turned-Flagship Grape appeared first on Liz Caskey Culinary and Wine Experiences.

Are you a foodie or wine enthusiast dreaming of a trip to the Napa Valley this year? Or perhaps you have never been–or it’s high time for a revisit. Today, our host Liz Caskey, a local Napa resident, sommelier, travel expert and co-founder of Liz Caskey Culinary & Wines unravels the secrets of how to strategically plan a trip to the region. Using Liz’s ‘three pillars’ approach to trip planning, learn to navigate all the ins and outs of crafting the perfect wine-soaked getaway. Learn about everything from seasonal considerations to the impact of geography on wine varieties, the art of selecting the ideal base for your Napa adventure, and how/when to wade through all the logistics. Whether you’re a wine connoisseur or a curious traveler, Liz’s expertise will guide you through the nuances of exploring Napa Valley.

In this episode we talk about:
Timestamps:

• 1:17 – Liz’s ‘Three Pillars’ of successful trip planning (for any trip)

• 3:26 – Coming to visit Napa in different seasons: winter, spring, summer, fall

• 8:33 – Travel planner hacks on where to base in Napa, the best airports for easy access, and the valley’s unique
geography to consider

• 16:44 – How to structure your trip (& wine tastings) to Napa like a pro

• 21:24 – Final key strategy to keep in mind for a successful trip

Resources:
Instagram: @lccwe, @lizcaskey77
Website: www.lizcaskey.com

The post In Search of Flavor, Episode 30: How to Plan a Trip to Napa appeared first on Liz Caskey Culinary and Wine Experiences.

In this episode we talk about:

• The wine revolution in Chile and how Rodrigo started exploring the wine in Burgundy, France
• His definition of terroir and how that relates to growing grapes and winemaking
• The journey and a 10-year search to identify the perfect site to plant his vineyard in the rainy south of Chile–a place where nobody had planted vines before.
• Understanding the climatic conditions in the south and their impact on wine production, and how ultimately these translate into Trapi’s unique wines
• Why Trapi’s wines are vegan, sustainable, and have incredibly low sulfates.
• His future plans in the US market and the legacy he hopes to leave the Chilean wine industry

Resources:

Instagram:@trapidelbueno

Travel in the South of Chile: Lake District & Patagonia

Order Trapi del Bueno wines from us here!!! 

The post In Search of Flavor, Episode 28: Rodrigo Romero on Extreme Wines from the Chilean Patagonia appeared first on Liz Caskey Culinary and Wine Experiences.

Nestled at the feet of the towering Andes Mountains with more than 320 days of sunshine each year, Mendoza is a region defined by wine, much the way Bordeaux or Napa is. After all, it’s the world’s fourth largest wine producing region. Mendoza, however, is more than vineyards and wine cellars. It’s a place that feels like a last frontier where the intensity of the sun is woven into every expression of the local DNA. With over 150,000 hectares of vineyards and 800+ wineries, tucked away in the heart of Pedriel in the Lujan de Cuyo district is Cavas Wine Lodge, a Relais & Chateaux property founded by Cecilia Diaz Chuit and her husband Martin Rigal in 2005. The first ‘wine lodge’ in Mendoza, Cavas started a life project that they brought to life through their relentless vision. Their presence, and passion, is the secret sauce that makes this property so magical–and sustainable in time. As many of you may have stayed in Cavas, or it’s on your list to check out, in this interview, Cecilia will take us behind the scenes of Cavas, a bit like visiting a hotelier friend in Mendoza. Grab your vinito and let’s go.

In this episode we talk about:

• How Cecilia’s upbringing lead her into travel and a career as a hotelier and entrepreneur.
• Mendoza in the early 2000s and how it has grown up as a wine region.
• How she and her husband found Cavas stunning location (vineyards! Andes! Minimalist architecture!) and why Argentine wine country geographically looks so different than other wine regions.
• What the secret is to really running a successful hotel.
• Anecdotes on life in Mendoza, Argentinian culture and love for the “asado”.

Resources:
Instagram: @cavaswinelodge
Website: www.cavaswinelodge.com

The post In Search of Flavor, Episode 27: Cecilia Diaz Chuit on Mendoza’s Magic appeared first on Liz Caskey Culinary and Wine Experiences.

We are in the final stretch of summer up north, guys, and we all have been enjoying languid afternoons in the shade or by the pool, usually with a glass of rose or a chilled white like…Sauvignon Blanc….in hand. In this episode, Liz dives into sharing her knowledge on Chilean Sauvignon Blanc from appellations, valleys, styles, producers, ideal pairings, some cultural anecdotes, and how to ultimately find a style that will dial into your white wine pleasure. It’s an episode full of practical wine tips so listen in.

We also just announced our newest wine workshop entitled South American Terroir happening virtually (or in your own time via the replay) on September 21, 2021. Click here for details and to sign up!

Resources:

If you are considering traveling to Chile in 2022, it’s a great time to start planning as the country has the most complete and aggressive vaccination in South America (over 85% of the adult population is fully vaccinated and there is now zero cases in Patagonia!). Contact us to plan your trip

In Episode 22, we talk a little about the possible forecast for travel in South America in 2022, although the pandemic is always a moving target Listen here.

The post In Search of Flavor, Episode 25: The Cilantro of the Wine World appeared first on Liz Caskey Culinary and Wine Experiences.