Punta del Este & Jose Ignacio
Punta del Este, the resort city where the Rio de la Plata estuary and the Atlantic Ocean meet, is often touted as a South American version of Miami Beach. “Punta” certainly could be considered ritzy as it draws an international jet-set crowd in the summer, complete with a glitzy casino, mega yachts bobbing in the marina, and fervent nightlife.
Cross over the “rippled” bridge connecting La Barra with the beach hamlets like Manantiales with its charming antique shops and “Bikini Beach” where beautiful bodies tan by the azure sea. As you follow the Atlantic coast east, the farther out, the chiller it gets. Sandy beaches meet rolling green countryside.
Once a sleepy fishing village, José Ignacio is a chic little town 30 minutes east of Punta del Este on a peninsula jutting into the south Atlantic. Flanked with two long, sandy beaches, Playa Mansa and Playa Brava, it is a buzzing haven for food lovers, surfers, and travelers swapping winter for summer. José Ignacio lures you with its seductive mix of boho charm, countryside freshness, and beachy sophistication. We can only compare it to “Montauk meets Montana with a touch of Saint Tropez.” We can’t get enough of it every summer.
Ingredients
AN IDYLLIC COASTLINE:
Punta del Este & Jose Ignacio,
Uruguay
Uruguay is a country blessed with sugar-white sand beaches and gentle swells much-loved by surfers. The beaches seemingly stretch to infinity and everywhere in town el mar is present. Listening to the sound of the waves puts you in such a blissed out state that your revolutions naturally dial down.
ENDLESS HORIZONS:
Punta del Este & Jose Ignacio,
Uruguay
Aqui solo corre el viento. Here, only the wind blows, says a sign in the plaza of José Ignacio. The wind, silent and invisible yet ever present, blows the billowy clouds across the peninsula and horizon. We could spend hours contemplating the intensely blue sky of Uruguay with clouds that appear to be painted by hand. It’s bewitching. Even after you leave Uruguay, the horizon will linger in your mind forever.
Dreamy Dining:
Punta del Este & Jose Ignacio,
Uruguay
After a few meals in José Ignacio, you’ll marvel at how this tiny town has many dreamy settings, the freshest products, and many gifted chefs and sommeliers. While Uruguayans consume a lot of red meat, when on the coast, they love seafood. Try the delectable grilled chiparones (baby squid), flaky white fish brotola, and the classic miniaturas, little fried “bites” that can be made of crab, fish, or even seaweed. They are delicious with a clericó (Uruguay’s version of sangria) on a hot afternoon.
Things We Love
A SEA OF INFINITY: Playa Vik may just have South America’s most iconic infinity pool. The deck stretches out towards Playa Mansa creating the illusion that you dive off into the Atlantic. In the distance, the high rises of Punta del Este appear miniature. It’s all blue everywhere. The azul infinito of the sea, the pool, the sky. It’s the best spot for sunset where you are bathed in golden hues and champagne in hand.
Local White Wine: Uruguayans know a thing or two about wine, and the area around José Ignacio has come up as one of the hot spots for the white varietal known Albariño, a delicious, velvety white wine with a crisp acidity that originally hails from Galicia, Spain. It also pairs perfectly with the fresh seafood, organic vegetables and salads, and soft cheeses in the region. It flows like water here and is often the white of choice at many local restaurants.
A WORLD AWAY Garzón: Not far inland through the rolling hills dotted with sheep, the dusty village of Garzón is home to 200. This a far flung corner where the siestas are long and the word hurry doesn’t exist. You also step in the world of chef Francis Mallmann, whose sophisticated destination restaurant and inn span a scenic corner of what was once the town’s old general store. Dine in the elegant dining room, or on the balmy terrace, where the theme is a seasonal menu of meat, fish, and vegetables, all cooked with different “fire” techniques.
Searching for flavors; the honest
and the meaningful
Hotels
Bahia Vik
With its own stretch of beach, three infinity pools for sunbathing, and sunset-over-the-ocean views, the vibe is beachy. The main lodge sits on a hill with views of the Atlantic and suites cluster around then. The private bungalows are spacious and the frontline built into the dunes (perfect for a clandestine ocean dip). Lunches long and leisurely at the hip beach club, La Susana, where you can dig your toes in the warm sand. Like all the Vik properties, art is a constant so each room is uniquely designed by a local Uruguayan artist.
Casa Zinc
Located off a quiet side road in La Barra, with a facade of rusted corrugated iron, the hodge-podge interior, and eclectic mix of vintage furniture, books, and knickknacks reflects the passion of its owner, a local designer and antiques dealer. Traditional milk jugs and vintage apothecary bottles sit atop old medical filing cabinets. Worn but comfy blanket-covered chesterfield sofas are the perfect place to curl up with a book. Retreat to one of the funky six rooms like arquitecto, airy and spacious, decorated with the restraint of a Bauhaus-trained architect.
Estancia Vik
Encompassing thousands of acres around an estuary that empties into the José Ignacio Lagoon, this Spanish-colonial-style estancia with a red tiled roof and white stucco exterior can be seen from miles away on its hilltop. With expansive views of the lagoon, countryside, and sparkling sea, it’s a stunning environment to call “home” while in Jose Ignacio. Saddle up with the gauchos for a ride or go kayaking on the river. At night, sunset by the pool is simply spectacular as the stars appear. Vik also puts on one of the best asados in Jose Ignacio, with a special room and fire pit created for the event.
Playa Vik
Located in the village of José Ignacio on Playa Mansa, staying here is like a sleepover in a private art gallery surrounded by the sea and interior gardens. Tastefully decorated with hammocks, rustic yet modern furniture, and sisal rugs, the center of the property is the space-age pavilion, adorned with stunning modern art, where the infinity pool melds into the sea with jaw-dropping vistas of the Uruguayan coastline. The du jour is to disconnect, read, swim, sunbathe, or dine under the stars. If you feel the need to leave the compound, the cool town of José Ignacio is only a few steps away.