Montevideo

Montevideo, the Uruguayan capital, has a knack for meshing modernity and nostalgia. Situated on the shores of the silty River Plate, the city is defined by La Rambla, the city’s 14-mile boardwalk where residents spend daily life strolling, jogging, walking their dogs, sunbathing, and drinking mate. Montevideo feels European with its neoclassical and Art Nouveau architecture, leafy plazas, and pedestrian yet it’s also fully embracing modernity. Fashion-forward boutiques, innovative chefs, hipster bars, cutting-edge art galleries, and glass-covered high-rises also intermingle. It’s a delightful sojourn and chill yet happening place.

A Market Romp: A favorite outing is to the feria, the local market. Here, vintage trucks double as stalls hawking their delicious goods and vegetable growers artfully stack seasonal produce. We love chatting with the cheesemonger, then with the fishmonger, and perhaps pick up a chicken pamplona (stuffed with provolone, ham, and roasted pepper) from the butcher. Of course, in Uruguay, no market haul is complete without herbs for chimichurri, a must on every table.

A Stroll on La Rambla: At dawn, at noon, at sunset, La Rambla is where life happens for Montevideanos. At the beach in Pocitos, with its sandy white beaches, locals will sunbathe in summer or play beach volleyball and swim in the soft waves. You can jog for miles, or just cop a spot during the golden hour and watch as the River and buildings are swathed in an orb of golden light. It’s energy is absolutely magical.

The Cult of Dulce de Leche: Uruguayans may love their meat, but the real obsession is the dulce de leche (milk caramel). Somehow it tastes better here than anywhere else. Tinged with vanilla extract, it’s creamier, gooier, richer, and deeper in flavor. We will take it in any form from bonbons to ice cream and the ubiquitous “sandwich”, the alfajor, whose best version comes dipped in dark chocolate.