Buenos Aires
Situated on the shores of the tawny-colored Río de la Plata, Buenos Aires is undoubtedly one of the most exciting, and sophisticated, cities on the South American continent. The best way to take the pulse of Argentine capital is to slow down and delight in its unique barrios.
BA’s main artery, the enormously wide Avenida 9 de Julio, traverses the city from north to south and is dominated by its Obelisco. The downtown is a mish-mesh of government and commercial buildings clustered around the historic Plaza de Mayo. Elegant Recoleta is a quarter of exquisite apartments, luxurious hotels, chic boutiques, palatial residences, handsome tree-lined streets, and of course, the Recoleta Cemetery, where the Argentine elite rest in eternal peace.
Palermo is full of verdant parks and gardens, the National Polo Field, and the burgeoning areas of Palermo Viejo (Soho), Palermo Hollywood and Villa Crespo where hipsters, designers, and young restaurateurs mingle with old-timers and decades-old cantinas.
South of the downtown lies San Telmo, steeped in another era with the romantic cobblestone streets, colorful facades and wrought-iron balconies that today are home to art galleries, tango parlors, antique dealers, and the Sunday flea market. Further out south is the gritty yet charming italian area of La Boca, with a smattering of brightly-colored houses, the soccer temple of La Boca stadium, authentic pasta joints and the cutting edge contemporary gallery, Fundacion Proa.
Buenos Aires, though, is not just the city. Outside the city limits in the province of Buenos Aires, it’s a land of cows grazing and extensive estancias steeped in gaucho traditions. Or to the north is the once vacation retreat of Tigre on the River Plate’s delta, a maze of canals and islands. You can also hop a ferry across the River Plate to the handsome colonial fort of Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay.
Ingredients
Buenos Aires is an epicenter for collectors of modern art. We can invoke the expert help of top curators and historians to go deeper into private collections, galleries, and shows. If antiques light you up, Sundays are made to tinker in San Telmo on Avenida Defensa—the Portobello Road of Buenos Aires. Period pieces, nostalgia tango posters, Evita bone china, it’s an antique junkie’s dream and a curious foray into the “stuff” that makes up Argentina’s history.
Things We Love
Craftsmanship: Leather craftsmanship is truly an art form in Buenos Aires. This is THE place to have a pair of custom made riding boots made…or a calfskin leather bomber jacket. Find the perfect evening cluth or placemats for your home. Beyond leather, there’s a formidable design scene utilizing Argentina’s natural panache for style in fashion, interiors, and art. It’s worth taking a day or two to visit the designers, private ateliers, galleries, and collections to take in this side of the capital.
People Watching: Much like in Paris, Buenos Aires always participates in the Olympics of People Watching from many of its cafes. Head for elegant Avenida Quintana where two well-known sidewalk cafés, La Biela and the Café de la Paix, have coveted spots to observe the action. Do as the locals, and order a frothy cortado and watch as the forever stylish and impeccably groomed porteños pass by.
Polo Paradise: Argentines are obsessed with polo. Here, the big stars are household names and every year the Argentine Open headlines on live television. If you can’t be in town during the finals in November to early December, head to a polo school in the nearby province of Buenos Aires. Better yet, take an overnight trip to San Antonio de Areco, a handsome town that’s the cradle of gaucho culture in the province, and happens to be near many of the polo estancias.
and the meaningful
Hotels
Alvear Palace
A Belle Époque landmark, the Alvear remains Buenos Aires’ grand dame hotel. Situated in the heart of Recoleta among grandiose 19th-century buildings, inside, classical European decor incorporates touches of Louis XV and XVI with luxurious, well-appointed guest rooms. Details make up the Alvear from fresh flowers to a staff of butlers and outstanding service. At teatime, L'Orangerie puts on an English-style tea along with the city’s best Sunday brunch. Classic Buenos Aires elegance.
Faena Hotel + Universe
Art and style impresario Alan Faena teamed up with Philippe Starck to transform an abandoned century-old grain depository into this trendy hotel in the art district of Puerto Madero, once part of Buenos Aires’ city docks. Rooms are playful and colorful as are the common areas with a theatrical feel like the Library Lounge, a clubby space outfitted with chesterfields and antique lamps. Even if you’re not a guest at the hotel, every night heats up for Rojo Tango show, the hottest tango in town.
Hub Porteño
This charming boutique hotel in the heart of Recoleta is a favorite hideaway for guests visiting the Argentine capital. With only 11 suites, the rooms are spacious, the decor soothing, and bathrooms covered in floor-to-ceiling Italian marble. Stylishly decorated, we love the intimate level of service and friendliness that makes you feel at home.
Legado Mítico
Located on a quiet cobblestone street in Palermo Soho, this smartly renovated early 20th-century townhouse is near all the action with hip restaurants, cafés, and boutiques at your fingertips. Tapping into a distinctively Argentine aesthetic, the decor is full of layers of texture from the sumptuous fabrics to the softly burnished leather pieces and thoughtfully chosen art and antiques. Each guestroom is named after a charismatic national figure from Evita Peron to Carlos Gardel.
