Today we kick off a monthly series into specific wine varieties and regions starting with a look into Chile’s clandestine-turned-flagship grape called Carmenere. Initially it was thought to be extinct after the phylloxera decimated Bordeaux’s vineyards in the 19th century. However, Carmenère was rediscovered in Chile in the mid 1990s and since then has been championed as the country’s iconic variety, much like Malbec has been touted as Argentina’s. In this episode, we delve into the origins of Carmenere, why it has thrived in Chile’s Mediterranean climate, discuss its seductively complex, earthy profile as a red wine, what producers and appellations to know as a consumer, and how to pair it with food, and how its affordability (at any price point from entry level to icon) can earn a place in your rotating wine options or cellar.

In this episode we talk about:

• History and Background of Carmenere
• Origin and discovery of Carmenere grape
• Transitioning the vineyards and where Carmenere grows in Chile
• Specific viticulture of growing Carmenere
• Flavor profiles of the grape and nuances across regions
• Chileans producers of Carmenere at all price points
• What to eat, and pair with Carmenere

Resources:
Instagram: @lccwe, @lizcaskey77
Website: www.lizcaskey.com
Our cookbook: https://lizcaskey.com/cookbook/

The post In Search of Flavor, Episode 32: Carmenere – Chile’s Clandestine-Turned-Flagship Grape appeared first on Liz Caskey Culinary and Wine Experiences.

We have been talking about Chile’s amazing wine diversity for a while now so I thought it was high time to do a short but sweet blog post outlining the major valleys in the Central Valley of Chile. The wine-growing region in Chile extends over 1,000 kilometers from the 30^th to 38^th latitudes. While certainly there are grapes being grown up in the Chile Chico, the desert region of Limarí and Elqui, and farther to the south in Malleco or BíoBío, for the focus of this particular post, I wanted to concentrate on the Mediterranean Central Valley.

From Santiago alone, driving in different directions, you can jump off to six wine valleys in two hours or less—a huge feat given the variety of the wines. It all has to do with geography. This is one mountainous country (70% or more is mountains). All those mountain folds, rivers, sediment and minerals, and fog from the ocean really do make a difference in the valleys, although distance-wise they are relatively close.

These write-ups of the Valleys will orient you with broad stroke characteristics of climate, soil, and grape varieties given. Maybe a producer or town of a well known micro-appellations. While I won’t go deep into this post, Chile has changed in its winemaking and continues to do so at breakneck speed. This generation of winemakers is actively seeking out new terroirs, planting new grapes, experimenting. Combined with the classical wineries that put some Chilean wines on the international map, this next generation is making wines that quicken the pulse and putting a lot of life into the wines—that really faithfully express the terroir.

Aconcagua Valley: In the shadow of towering Mount Aconcagua, the tallest peak in South America, this valley is renowned for its red wines given the warm, dry climate. Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon are very happy campers here. The open valley receives ample, cool sea breezes from the nearby Pacific, and Mt. Aconcagua is visible with the naked eye on many days, even from the coast. This pequeño valley is centered around Panquehue where one of Chile’s flagship wineries, Errazúriz, is based. Here, shallow, stony soils with good drainage give birth to Cabernet Sauvginon, Merlot, Carmenere and Syrah. Recent plantings of vineyards closer to the ocean near Ocoa (an area known for its stunning Chilean palms), is producing tongue-tingling Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. We think that the coastal region here has lots of potential for growth as winemakers look for cooler temperatures and experiment with the limits of Pinot Noir.

Casablanca Valley: In the 1980s, winemaker Pablo Morandé saw the uncanny similarities of this valley with Sonoma, California. At that time, it was most dairy farms and little water in the valley (there’s no river, only limited wells). Many considered him a loco to plant his grapes. He obviously had the last laugh as today Casablanca, lying west of the coastal range, has some of Chile’s best cool-climate growing conditions. This valley is responsible for producing vibrant, fresh Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and reds like Pinot Noir and the “cool weather” Syrah with its peppery, blackberry note, a departure from the Syrah of hotter inland valleys. The soils in Casablanca vary from granitic to clay and sandy soils. One thing that is incredibly important about this valley is the moderating effect of the Pacific Ocean who shrouds the valley in thick-as-pea-soup fog many mornings. This protective layer allows these delicate, cool weather grapes to thrive and maintain zesty acidity. The only downside? Frost can be an issue during bud break in October. As you drive through the valley you see the fans (that are really heaters)  strategically placed to circulate warmer air on those frigid mornings.

San Antonio Valley: Many people tend to cluster San Antonio as an extension of Casablanca but it is really its own wine valley with considerably different characteristics than Casablanca.  While adjacent, geographically speaking, San Antonio is a new valley with a handful of top rate, boutique wineries making. In my opinion, this valley is producing some of the most exciting wines in Chile right now. Here, the cold Humboldt Current is clearly evidenced by the chilly breezes blowing off the ocean and long, cool summers allowing grapes to ripen every so slowly while developing concentrated, intense flavors. Two buzz words for this valley: high acid, low pH. There is a crispness and unique expression to these wines that is so palatable it literally jumps out of the glass and bites your nostrils in a tasting. Here you’ll find pioneers and references like Casa Marin, Matetic, and Garcés Silva who call this valley home. The golden grapes here are Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and even lesser known varietals like Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Pinot Noir and Syrah have also adapted incredibly well with fruity, earthy expressions.

Maipo Valley: Due south of Santiago, the traditional heart of Chilean winemaking has its roots firmly established in the first generation of serious wines, made from plantings brought back from Europe by the aristocratic class at that time. Names like Concha y Toro, Cousiño Macul, and Santa Rita all have grand estates from their prosperous past. The Maipo is actually divided into the “high” Maipo, closest to the Andes, and the “Isla del Maipo”, an island formed by the Maipo River. For intensive purposes of this post, we’ll focus on the high Maipo which is the Andean piedmont and where the finest wines are made due to the cooler temperatures and greater thermic oscillation. Most of the vines are planted around the country villages of Alto Jahuel, Buin, Pirque, and Puente Alto (which has now been engulfed by Santiago). When you think of this area, it should be benchmark Cabernet Sauvignon. In fact, in Puente Alto where Almaviva is located, it is surrounded by prestigious neighbors like Concha y Toro’s Don Melchor and Errazuriz’s Chadwick vines. Why? This terroir is esteemed among the finest in the world for Cab. And Maipo Cabernet most definitely has a distinct flavor. The berries are tiny, dense, and filled with aromas are of deep cassis (black currant). There’s an herbaceous note that many say come from the eucalyptus trees in the valley and oils “suspended” in the air. The wines are fresh, elegant, balanced with silky tannins.In blind tastings, these Cabs, or their, just call to you. There’s a reason some of the big wine guns like Almaviva, Domus Aurea, Don Melchor, Chadwick, and others all hail from this valley.

Cachapoal Valley: This newish valley used to be part of what was once called Rapel, named after the Rapel lake and also included Colchagua. Now separated from Colchagua, this nearly all red wine district extends from the cool foothills of the Andes towards Route 66, known as the Ruta de la Fruta varying from shallow rocky slopes to fertile alluvial soils ideal for Carmenere. Here in Peumo, is arguably some of the best Carmenere terroir in Chile (here Concha y Toro’s distinguished Carmin & Terrunyo grapes are born). That being said, Cabernet Sauvignon is the name of the game here, with particularly velvety tannins and nice acid in Requinoa, which is in the foothills with grand cru projects in its folds. Near Rancagua, high in the Andes, innovative vintners are blazing trails making high altitude Chardonnay with its own unique expression, undaunted by winter snowfall. There’s also a smattering of Merlot near Rengo, hotter and lower in altitude. While Cachapoal does not have the caché of the Maipo or Colchagua yet, it’s one valley to watch.

Colchagua Valley: Without doubt, Colchagua could be the Chilean wine valley that has gotten the most traction abroad from a name brand stand point, and certainly with wine tourism. Many have done the valley a disservice of constantly comparing it as Chile’s “Napa” because of the higher concentration of wineries and some similarities in climate to its Californian cuisine. Colchagua, however, has a very different, more rustic feel than Napa and thankfully can hold its own. The valley follows the Tinguiririca River from the Andes to the Pacific, flanked by several extensions of the coastal mountains with tall hills. It’s essentially a wide corridor with hills for growing vines on the flat and hillsides. The terrain is quite varied with loamy, fertile soils close to the River and shallow, rocky gravel and even granite on the hillsides. Colchagua is very hot in the summer time but a consistent cool breeze from the Pacific, 50 miles as the crow flies, cools things off most afternoons around 4pm. By the evening, the mercury has plummeted again showing temperature spreads of over thirty degrees! This scenarios is perfect for a slow ripening process and the long hang times Carmenere and Syrah demand. Inland Colchagua is predominantly red wine country dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carmenere, and Syrah made by a handful of top producers like Casa Lapostolle and Montes. There is development of a new terroir to the west near Lolol and Paredones championing white wines like Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc, leveraging the fog belt and heavily granitic soils. Pioneers like Casa Silva are leading the pack with these tongue-tingling whites that have people talking. We predict Colchagua Coast may be the next big “discovery” coming.

Maule Valley: This is the southernmost part of the Central Valley. Here the Andes fade to west as the farmland opens with flat plains and low hills. This area is the largest wine-producing region in Chile as far as acreage is concerned, although much of the plantings are the rustic país grape brought by the Spanish used for simple table wine. Rainfall is slightly higher in this region, which has allowed many of the small, garage wineries cultivating old bush vine Carignan by exclusively dry farming to survive. The Maule is an exciting area with a fervor of action happening in Carmenere, Carignan, Cabernet Franc, and blends. Many MOVI (independent vintners association) projects like Garage Wine Co. and our favorite, Gillmore, hail from this area and are really putting forth thoughtful, provocative wines that have identity. Keep your eyes peeled for the Maule, lots happening here.

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Imagine this. Twelve dramatically different wine valleys packed into a 1,000 mile north to south mid-section of the country, no more than 100 miles or so wide at any point. Vineyards sit in the piedmont with jagged, snowcapped peaks cutting into the sky. Others rise on gentle, sloping hills with the shimmer of the azure Pacific to the west. Yet others are nestled along meandering riverbeds, climb steep hillsides, or rest peacefully on flats encased by the hilly topography.

These twelve wine valleys span more than a dozen latitudes ranging from parched desert to the foggy coast, sun-drenched Mediterranean area around Santiago, the capital, and the cold rainy south. Over 80% of Chile is mountainous and as seismically active country during millions of years has created layer upon layer of different soil types. The variety of microclimates and soils is seemingly infinite. To wrap your head around this, it’s like taking all of the wine growing regions in the western US, from British Columbia to Southern California, and squishing them into this reduced area—and then throwing in some of the tallest mountains in the world and a cold, cold ocean.

Here, there are millions, if not infinite, expressions for nearly every major grape varietal. Chile is a wine-growing utopia. Let us count the grapes. Crunchy, crisp, dry Chardonnay from the Limarí; Zippy, dazzle-your-tongue Sauvignon Blanc from the coast with saline and mineral notes; earthy, elegant Pinot Noir; wild, electric, nervous coastal Syrah and it’s riper, jammier cousin inland; bodybuilder Cabernet Sauvignon from the Maipo; old vine, dry-farmed Carignan from the Maule; sparkling wines made from the traditional país grape; Bordeaux blends that redefine elegance. And on and on…

Chile’s wine diversity is truly mind-blowing, overwhelming, inspiring, and exciting.

A previous promotion by Wines of Chile was trying to establish a foothold for Carmenere, a lost Bordeaux blending varietal, that was “rediscovered” in Chile in the 1990s as the country’s signature grape. Obviously they wanted to seize some of the momentum Argentina’s “Malbec Craze” that had caught on in the US like a fever. Problem was, nobody could remember the word Carmenere and much less pronounce it. As a wine, IMHO, there are a few standout Carmeneres (Montes’ Purple Angel, Concha y Toro’s Carmin, JF Lurton’s Alka), but in general, Carmenere gets along MUCH better in Cabernet-based or red blends. Certainly, it is not representative of all Chilean wines. In fact, touting Carmenere as Chile’s “flagship” wine I thought was somewhat of a disservice to the winemaking community here since it disregarded all this wonderful diversity and honed in on one old grape with a good story. Makes for good marketing, I suppose.

There’s definitely more to Chilean wine than Carmenere. Chile’s competitive edge is it’s sheer diversity. That’s it. That should be the wine buzz word. D-I-V-E-R-S-I-T-Y.

Winemakers here have made huge advances in understanding what they naturally have here and how to work with this great potential. It means that Chile is no longer just a red wine producing country nor do only big wineries dominate the landscape. The door is opening to the amazing Sauvignon Blanc and other varietals that exude many corners of this land and small producers expressing this terroir too. Let’s have a look at some of the major topographical drivers that contribute to this diversity of Chile’s terroir.

The Andes: I often joke that the Andes are really the “Great Wall of Chile”, a natural one at least. For centuries, these steep, granitic mountains have warded off enemies, agricultural pests, and been a buffer zone between Chile and Argentina. Why do the Andes matter so much in Chile’s wine? The Andes are a fundamental source of water for the rivers that flow into the wine valleys (many wine valleys actually take their name after the river), sourced from snowmelt during the winter months. As the water melts, it pulls in sediments and minerals moving down a steep gradient. It moves and deposits these minerals into vineyards as it is dripped as irrigation to feed the plant.

Have you ever drank the water in Chile (it’s potable)? It’s hard water that is completely mineral-laden. That same minerality is what gives amazing complexity to the wines. Winemakers also cite that the purity of the water also allows the plant to thrive and best express the terroir with no filters. In the inland valleys closer to the mountains, these areas are now called “Alto”, high zones as they are in the piedmont. Here the Andes also have a cooling effect with the temperature dropping off at night. For example, in the Maipo near Puente Alto where some of the benchmark Cabernet like Don Melchor is born, the glacier visible in Cajón del Maipo, sends cool breezes causing a huge temperature oscillation between night and day.

The Sea: The great Pacific Ocean on the west coast of Chile serves as one big temperature-regulating body year round. The frigid water is fed by the Humboldt Current, coming straight from Antarctica. Besides providing us with an abundance of fresh seafood, this cold sea also creates refreshing breezes every afternoon that blow through the river valleys hills to ventilate and cool the vineyards. In fact, many of the coastal valleys like San Antonio, Casablanca, or the Limarí, often awake to foggy, cold mornings where the sun doesn’t rear it’s head until 3pm through the thick cloud cover. This cloud shroud is key to protect sensitive grape types like pinot noir, sauvignon blanc or chardonnay that love this seaside climate.

Soil types: It is critical to plant the vines in the right place. It’s not just a matter of climate, it’s also a matter of the soil, the “home” where they live. Not all vines are equal, just like people. Some vines thrive in sandy soils, like Malbec, and others need rocky soils with good drainage like Cabernet Sauvignon. Carmenere, a feisty grape, is a water hog and is happy as can be in clay soils that retain more humidity. Likewise, in some areas of the coast, marine sediments and granite hills can determine the taste and concentration of pinot noir or sauvignon blanc. I am by no means a soil expert, but most Chilean wineries and winemakers these days are consulting with the “Terroir Godfather”, Pedro Parra, to really understand the potential of their vineyards. With Pedro, they dig deep calicatas, to see the root systems, stratification of layers of loam, sand, top soil, rock, etc. and understand how the vines work within this is subterranean world.

Diversity is truly where it’s at in Chile. So when you hit your local wine merchant next time, remember Chile’s divine diversity and experiment.  For those of you who’d like to come see first hand what all the buzz is about, you can join us on our harvest tour this April to get a taste of all these wines (and unofficial course in Chilean and Southern Cone Wines).

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You guys have been writing a lot to ask which South American wines I recommend for parties, big and small, since they pack such a value-driven punch and a lot of bang for your buck. Now that we are officially knee-deep in the holiday season, here are a few “must haves” from US$10-15 per bottle that are widely accessible in the US (I could give you some boutique recommendations but those would require “hunting”). If you are entertaining this season, these won’t blow the bank, but will give you a LOT of wine-drinking pleasure. Just say gracias to the Viejito Pasquero, that’s Santa in Chile & Argentina.

Emiliana Orgánico, Natura Chardonnay 2011, Casablanca, Chile, US$10

The 2011 vintage of this unoaked Chardonnay, only kissed by stainless, is simply smokin’. Very lean green apples, loads of minerals, grated citrus, and a zestiness that makes your mouth go wow. It’s almost like a Sauvignon Blanc dressed up like a Chardonnay, so it will go with almost anything.

Carlos Pulenta, Tomero Torrontés 2010, Salta, Argentina, US$10

Think Torrontés is only for summer? Wrong. Leave the bubbly for New Year’s Eve and enchant your guests with something exotic, spicy, and memorable. This Torrontés is bright yellow with aromas of roses, orange blossoms and jasmine. It’s got that explosive nature in the mouth, with a freshness and some mineral notes. Perfect aperitif. Sure beats eggnog any day.

Baron Philippe de Rothschild Maipo, Escudo Rojo 2008, Maipo, Chile, U$13

Trying to please wine aficionados and newbie crowd? This one, that will make everybody swoon, is one of the best-kept wine secrets on the shelf. It´s a “red wine benchmark” when comparing many reds under $20. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc is aged 12 months in French oak and deliver aromas and flavors of berries, chocolate, and spices. The oak is integrated with sufficient complexity but is not overbearing. Need a fun break-the-ice activity? Serve it as a blind taste. Your wine buddies may be shocked when they learn it is not Bordeaux.

Andeluna Malbec 2008, Mendoza, Argentina, US$10

This medium-sized bodega in Uco is not that well known yet in the US, but its founder, the late H. Ward Lay, was the owner of the potato chip family Frito Lay. This Malbec is a sexy crowd pleaser that will have the room cooing in no time. Inky purple in color with aromas of dark fruits and flowers, dulce de leche, vanilla, and chocolate are mellowed by aging in oak barrels. This is a sweetish wine, typical for Malbec, but overall, it´s well-balanced, full bodied and has a nice tannic grip. Perfect for a cold winter’s night and some chocolate Christmas cookies.

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As Thanksgiving descends upon the masses up north, I want to share a short cooking and wine pairing video to give you some ideas that could easily become the first course spread. Yes, it is 90% do ahead. Important when you’re hosting a house full of hungry friends and family and need the oven for just about every dish.

This carpaccio is a departure from the typical beef or veal topped with Parmesan and capers. Here, we are going to pay homage to fresh Cranberry Beans, known as porotos granados in these latitudes. These legume gems are combined with paper-thin, heart healthy ostrich meat  and married with fresh herbs and a zesty vinaigrette that screams yumminess and eat-me-now. The beans come in hot pink shells and flood the local markets during the early summer. I spotted the first ones yesterday in the market and did my happy foodie dance as it’s a sign from nature that summer is nearly here. Toothy in texture with a bright taste, these beans layer on the wine-loving flavor and prove in this recipe that you can combine a medium red wine with something other than beef. Don’t have fresh cranberry beans? Don’t despair. In a pinch, use canned (and rinsed) white beans like Navy or Cannellini. Don’t like ostrich or it’s hard to find? No sweat. Try searing up a perfect tuna steak a la inglesa and slice it down like sashimi instead. Vegan? Add some greens and listo.

I pair this recipe with one of my favorite Carmenere blends from Emiliana Orgánico called Novas. Here, just the right amount of Cabernet Sauvignon is added to give the wine structure (think muscle tone), yet it’s still feminine with some curves–fleshy, round, yet powerful. Think about the grace and strength of a Cirque du Soleil performer and that’s this wine. It will pair well with everything on your Thanksgiving table.

Enjoy and Happy Turkey Day to everyone. I won’t be cooking, nor partaking, this year as we’re headed for some R&R at Estancia El Colibri in Cordoba, Argentina (horse & food paradise, two of my favorite things). One request…would you guys please have some extra corn pudding for me? Always love that dish. Actually, now that I think of it, when I get back, maybe I’ll just do my own Thanksgiving just of side dishes.

The post Carpaccio with Cranberry Bean Salad & Carmenere appeared first on Liz Caskey Culinary and Wine Experiences.

Santiago, Chile; via nischg (flickr)

2. Vino, Vino, Vino: Chile’s wine can be summed up in a couple words: quality and diversity. With one of the few Mediterranean areas in the world like California and South Africa, here is where you’ll find many of the world-class vineyards producing a staggering amount of varietals. Riesling, Gerwurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah (in several different styles from Rhone to Shiraz), Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Carignan, Merlot, Grenache, Mouvedre, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, País, Merlot…shall I continue? I think you get the point. Add to that two Mountain ranges (the Andes and Coast) that create a myriad of micro valleys, the maritime influence of the Pacific creating coolness, pristine water following in the Rivers through the valley, and you have tremendous potential and infinite terroir expressions. Luckily, Chile’s opted to go for quality and fine wines and the winemakers are doing just that. Crushing it.

3. Seafood: With 2,600-plus miles of coastline, there is some serious seafood in this country. Due to the Humboldt Current coming up the Pacific coast from Antarctica, the Chilean Sea is considered among the most productive marine ecosystems in the world as well as the largest upwelling system, moving nutrient-rich water towards the ocean surface. The result? Sealife teems in Chilean waters. In fact, it’s one of the highlights of living here. The sea is just as much a garden to eat from as is the wonderful foodstuffs. Much of Chile’s fishing industry is still artisan as fishermen head out into the cold waters in small, wooden fishing boats to procure dozens of varieties of fish from corvinato to congrioto vieja. In some places, they still harpoon the fish from the rocks. In Southern Chile, we feast on black-lipped oysters year-round, sublime sea urchins and nearly a dozen indigenous shellfish. On any day, I can walk to Santiago’s Mercado Central, just five blocks from my apartment, and have 15 different kinds of fish and a dozen varieties of crustaceans, bivalves, and squid or octopus. Blessed? Most definitely, especially with all the great white wine.

The many wines of Chile; via jamesonf (flickr)

4. Produce: Chile is produce paradise. Everything grows here. We eat on a huge variety of foodstuffs from fava beans to asparagus, artichokes, wild mushrooms (several varieties), heirloom beans, pumpkin, squash, corn, tomatoes, organic lettuces, wild greens, quince, pomegranate, berries, chilies, twelve kinds of avocado, and much, much more. I fill my house each week with tons of fresh, healthy produce, the base of our diet. With the intense sun, fertile soil, and fact that they don’t pick until ripe, the food here tastes different. It has a depth and intensity I have not tasted anywhere else (ok, perhaps parts of California). As a cook, I am constantly in wonderland. It’s easy to be lean and healthy when surrounded by such bounty, seriously.

5. Santiago Rocks: Cosmopolitan, hip, stylish, growing. Santiago is stepping into its own. Although it’s a big capital, it’s compact “Santiago proper” is a city of neighborhoods that feel broken down into smaller towns. It is vibrant, ever changing, and reflecting the prosperity happening in all of Chile. I love calling it home. Santiago is more than a stopover now. The Financial Times called it Latin America’s city of the future. I agree.

6. Skiing, Horses, Surfing: Nature is a playground here. There are very few places where you could (in winter) head up to Valle Nevado to ski for the day, then head down in only three hours to the coast for Pisco Sour at sunset. Horses are a big passion here in South America and even if you’re a novice, saddle up with the arrieros, or horsemen, to get a unique view of the Andes. If you’re into rodeos, you’ll find they are the most civilized endeavors ever, as Tony Bourdain discovered when we shot “No Reservations” in Chile. Better break out your best jeans, shirt, and cowboy hat.

7. Mediterranean Paradise: The climate here is delicious. Warm, dry, sunny, rainless much of the year (except winter), it is mild and a delight. Love the weather in LA? Then Santiago will be your bag. I guarantee it.

Produce from Mercado La Vega; via Naturaleza (flickr)

8. Friendly natives, kissing optional: People here are nice, really nice. If someone in Santiago gives you some ‘tude, ignore them, it’s the typical plight of city-goers anywhere. Chileans want to make you happy. They are usually honored you’ve come so far to visit them. They can be shy at first and take some time to welcome you into their circle, but remember this is a small country where people know each other their whole life. They will bend over backwards to help you. They are honest, giving people that understand solidarity (look at the earthquake and reconstruction efforts). I love that in Chile (and all of Latin America and Europe) people peck on each other’s cheeks when meeting. Guys are not afraid to give a hearty hug to their mates. It’s so personal and much more connective than the typical “hey” I grew up with in the US.

9. Chill lifestyle: That’s right, my life here is chill and I love it. Living in the US and that frantic, keep-up-with-the-rat-race pace seems light years away, thankfully. I take time to enjoy life. We sit down to eat lunch together, have coffee with friends, and walk a little slower through the park. Families join together every Sunday for lunch. I feel eternally grateful every day to have domestic help in my home. Patience can be required for the al tiro attitude (meaning anytime from 5 minutes from now to 2 days), but at the end, things get done and we live in the now. Not the “yesterday” mentality I had in New York. That sense of never catching up, never getting to my destination, and being terrified—so I worked more. What a drag. Life is happening now and I want to enjoy it. Thankfully, Chile (and Latins in general) get this and make time for it. That does not mean we don’t crank and get work done. It’s about understanding that if you don’t savor your precious life NOW, when will you? That is what I call quality of life and lifestyle. I live so well here.

Plaza de Armas in Santiago; via kyle simourd (flickr)

10. Boom times: Chile’s GDP is expected to grow 6% this year, up over 15% from 2010. That’s pretty impressive. It’s boom times for this country, and not just if you’re in the copper business. Things are blossoming here. Foreign Direct Investment is pouring in with new projects from IT and software to luxury hotels, ecological initiatives and carbon offsets. Socially, more and more kids are going to college and there’s even talk in Congress of passing a law to make gay unions legal. Chileans are traveling abroad more. It’s becoming a more worldly, happening place. Boom times.

What are your reasons to love Chile? Please share in the comments. Let’s go on a Chile loving rant!

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Summer is just around the corner in much of the US (cold, rainy weather just a detail) and grilling seems to be synonymous with warm weather. This coming weekend, Memorial Day, officially inaugurates the picnic and barbeque season. Ahh, the smells of charcoal and seared meat fill the air. If you want a twist on your typical hamburger cook out, try these “lamb burgers” for some South-of-the-equator flair.

In the windblown pastures of Chilean Patagonia, the ratio of sheep to humans is 10 to 1. Sheep have a relaxed life munching on the coirón grasses which infuse the meat with an herbal, almost floral taste. While lamb in Chile is traditionally spitted whole and slow cooked over flames for hours, in this recipe, we fuse the pleasantly gamey, sweet ground meat with the traditional North American hamburger.

Lamb is also the perfect pairing for a hearty Carmenere, the base of the exquisite wine blend we are pairing it with, Novas. Earthy spices, like cumin and ground cilantro, are kneaded into the patties. The earthy flavor tangos with the spiciness coming from the Carmenere as well as the other grape in the blend – Cabernet Sauvignon. The grill imparts a smoky, charred flavor to the meat and explodes the intense flavor of the lamb and wine combination.

Chileans are passionate about their sandwiches, adorning them with thick layers of mashed avocado, homemade mayonnaise and topping off with fresh tomato slices. With the Avocado-Mayo, we’ve fused two key ingredients. Heaven? My mouth thought so!

Watch on and feel free to share your grilling tips and wine pairings in the comments section.

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Spring time has officially arrived in the US.  My goodness, here on my tour stateside, the strawberries are coming into season and flooding supermarkets, roadside stands and farmers markets. While the natural inclination in these latitudes is to make up a heavy, not-so-healthy, strawberry pie (with rhubarb if you please), why not combine these tender strawberries with a medium, red wine like Carmenere for a healthy and refreshing dessert.

The first (white) strawberry on Earth was discovered in the south of Chile in the 16th century by the Spanish. Today, all berries are an integral part of the Chilean diet and fruit abundance found throughout the Southern region and Central Valley. The berries reach their sweetest peak in the summer months from January to March when you can even see gatherers filling buckets with blackberries by country road sides. This simple dessert is a perfect “make ahead” dish that also incorporates Chile’s flagship wine varietal, Carmenere. Here, we pair a Natura Carmenere from Emiliana Organico which has inherently spicy notes on the nose with homey notes of cloves and cinnamon. The wine reduction sauce steps that up a notch and intensifies the lush fruit flavors. The exotic addition of basil adds pizzazz to the palate although grated dark chocolate is another tempting alternative. If you want to mix it up, try it with a Malbec.

Serve it in a wine glass for a stunning presentation. Best part? You can make the sauce up to 2 days ahead and the cut up the berries the night before. Easy entertaining. Did I mention that leftover wine sauce is REALLY good on dark chocolate, dulce de leche, or even vanilla ice cream? Que disfruten chicos.

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One of the lesser known classic wineries in Chile, alongside heavy hitting names like Concha y Toro, Cousiño Macul, and Santa Rita, Santa Carolina is celebrating 135 years as a winery. Have you heard of them? Probably not until now. Although it’s been a player in the local market for some time, its wines were more mass-driven, and for my taste, didn’t really offer up anything all that compelling—until recently.

A top-down reorganization in the winemaking, wine styles, selection of vineyards and varietals, viticulture management, and even marketing has really caused Santa Carolina—and all its brands—to do a 180-degree turn. Quality-driven with an eye to attractive prices. An intimate understanding of new their terroirs and why they’re pioneering them. There’s an air of rejuvenation, of innovation, and, well, it shows in the wines.

Several months ago, I went to a marathon tasting of all their wines and brands (40-odd wines, do I remember after all of that?). What struck me was this shift that had been applied across the board from reserve to their icon wine, Herencia. It’s a compelling project spearheaded by the vision and savvy know-how of the head winemaker, Andrés Caballero. In the coming weeks, I will be profiling several of their wines and sharing my tasting notes (assuming I can decipher them, by the end of 40 wines that was a challenge…). To jump start this, let’s check out their ultra-premium Carmenere, Herencia, a trend we’re seeing in Chile among wineries looking to exalt the humble flagship grape, Carmenere, to god-like dimensions.

Santa Carolina Herencia Carmenere 2007 (Peumo)

In Spanish, Herencia means heritage and this wine, fittingly, is a testament to the history of the winery—both the old and the new identity they are forging. Made from 85% grapes in La Rinconada vineyard in the Cachapoal Valley (hot spot currently for Carmenere growing) and 15% from Los Lingues a little farther south in Colchagua, this is a lush style Carmenere typical of these areas. Carmeneres from these regions tend to be deep, dense, concentrated, and show the typicity of the fruit when it’s ripened (slowly) with tons of sun.

This wine is a beauty. Swish and swirl and stare in your glass at the deep ruby color that radiates pomegranate rays towards the sides of the glass. Take a whiff and breathe deeply. It’s rich. Those dark, juicy fruits like ripe black cherries and plums that would dribble down your chin if you bit into them. Behind the fruit is a humming of spices like clove, maybe a hint of tobacco. The barrel is obviously there.

Say “ahh,” that is, take a sip. This is a big wine, like many reds from Chile, at 14.5% alcohol. Blame it on all the sunshine and Carmenere—the last grape to be harvested in late May—is certainly a sun worshipper to get to its ideal ripeness. This wine in the mouth is complex and has smooth tannins backed with fresh acidity. It’s not a girly wine, though. This could stand up to everything from some delicious rare lamb chops to grilled salmon. The overall sensation is one of balance and elegance, although the texture and deepness of flavor read like a decadent bonbon. After swallowing, the flavor lingers and lingers and lingers with notes of blackcurrant and those dark notes again. Delicious, although it was so dense my sensation is that after a glass or two my palate may need to go to a less-intense wine. Well, there’s only one way to know—run an experiment at home. Have a good weekend everyone!

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I am back on the ground in Chile after a whirlwind “tour” promoting our culinary & wine tours business and Emiliana Orgánico wines with TV in Florida, cooking classes & wine pairings at Central Market in Texas, and wrapping up everything with the most fun tasting ever with clients in Shreveport, Louisiana. You know, I was born a northeaster (as “y’all” kept telling me to slow down when I speak) but I am absolutely smitten with the southern US. People are so friendly, the pace is slower, the weather is w-a-r-m. It’s a nice change from what was normal for me of the go-go-go mentality of New York.

While on tour, since it’s been a while since I have been in the US in November, I had forgotten how much emphasis gets placed on Thanksgiving. And yikes!, there seemed to be a lot of media focus on surefire ways to mitigate all the stress around entertaining for turkey day: travel, the best technique to cook your bird (deep-frying turkey? yep, in the South they are very into this), what are the best side dishes and then, hopefully not an afterthought, what wines should I be serving with this? This last question I have been constantly fielding so I thought I would share my personal suggestions on what I love to serve for Thanksgiving dinner at our house, which may give you some ideas for your own table this Thursday.

My approach is to pair wines with each course so you can sip, savor, and try more. It’s fun and gets people talking and your palate will thank you. To that effect,  I am going to recommend some value-driven South American wines that will not only fit in your budget but also amaze your guests with the region’s diversity and show off your Chilean & Argentine wine saviness. Listos? Vamos ahi.

Appetizers

As a kid, in my house for T-giving, my grandpa would prepare a classic martini for himself, gin and tonic for my late grandmother, Dad nursed a Scottish single malt, and my Mom sipped (cringe!) white zinfandel. It wasn’t until I graduated from college and got into wine that I delved into the wine possibilities for this holiday. Given that Thanksgiving is a day of celebration, gratitude, and ultimately, sharing with friends and family, why are you saving that bubbly until New Year’s? Doesn’t this merit a toast?

Sparklers enchant. If I had to pick one type of wine for the rest of my life, this would probably be it. “Bubbly”  can be perfect for all occasions and anything celebrated, not just holidays and special occasions. What all great bubblies have in common, that is champagne (which technically is only from the Champagne region in France) and other varieties like Prosecco, Cava and Sparkling wine, is vibrant acidity. I will repeat, vibrant acidity. What do this do with food? It pushes all the flavor buttons in what you’re eating and adds more oomph, verze, and sizzle to everything from goat cheese to tomatoes to roasted veggies, or even steak.

Luckily in Chile & Argentina, we have lots of options made in the traditional method from Champagne. In fact, in our house  in Santiago, should you ever come visit, you’ll be given one of our favorite house sparklers upon entry. There are different styles out there, sweet or dry, but I always stick to the dry for the appetizer course. I love usually brut (no residual sugar whatsoever), blanc de blancs (made from all white grapes like Chardonnay, very elegant), or nature (also dry but with toasty notes). The commonality here is that they are crisp, refreshing, and your appetizers new best (food) friend.

Some of our favorites:

Cono Sur Brut NV, Chile (US$10): fleshy, hearty, intense with clean citrus notes. Love this with oysters, scallops, and roasted asparagus.

Viña Casablanca Blanc de Blancs, Chile (US$12): Fine bubbles and citrusy notes (think grapefruit) with aromas of wet stones and minerals and some toasty back notes. It goes down easy and never lasts.

Cruzat Nature, Argentina (US$20): Perhaps the “Krug” of South America, this delicious bubbly has fine bubbles is rich, toasty, clean, and the closest I have tried to traditional champagne in this part of the New World. Love it.

Cava Geisse Rosé, Brazil (US$20): Brazilian wine? Sim senhor(a). In the southernmost (read: cool) region, Rio Grande do Sul in the rolling, verdant hills, bubbly is king. Nobody knows their stuff like this house. Crunchy, earthy, and beautiful with pink hues, if you can find this it is worth opening your mind and palate to what’s next in South American wines: Brazil.

Dinner

Thanksgiving pays homage to the harvest so earthiness and deep, rich flavors blanket the spread on most tables. While this can range regionally from classic sweet potatoes to something more spicy in the Cajun bayou of Louisiana and Southeast Texas, generally speaking, turkey is going to work well with wines that pull up more of that earthy-sweetness inherent in the bird and accompanying dishes. Turkey is a delicate meat so a big red, like a Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz, will steal the show. Think of medium-body reds with silky tannins and loads of juicy fruit as your ideal partner.

Pinot Noir:

Pinot is b-o-o-m-i-n-g in Chile in the coastal regions of Casablanca and San Antonio. To be honest, if you blind tested, it would be a dead ringer for California’s Sonoma Coast, Carneros, or even some of the Williamette producers in Oregon. The key? They are keeping it in line with what the grape needs—cool temperatures and the right soils. Chilean Pinot has been a big of an “aha” for the international wine drinking community. The Pinots are elegant with subtle aromas of cherries, berries, sometimes ash or smoke, but subtlety is the word. In the mouth, they are concentrated and long leaving a pleasant after taste not unlike a bonbon. Pinot is almost always a safe bet with all drinkers since everybody adores its juicy flavor, medium body, and plush tannins.

Garcés Silva 2008 Pinot Noir, Chile (US$30): This is my favorite Pinot from Chile. It is seductive, sexy, and will captivate you from the first sip. Smooth, earthy, bringing up oodles of fresh berries, it seriously is pure love with anything earthy.

Matetic EQ 2008 Pinot Noir, Chile (US$35): Holy Cherries. This is a dark, sultry Pinot that becomes a real chameleon in the glass. I like that it eludes you a little at the beginning. Notes of smoke and velvety tannins rule. It really tangoes with turkey.

Kingston Family Vineyards Alazán Pinot Noir, Chile (US$25): Great price-quality ratio as you are easily buying a wine twice the quality of its retail price. Lots of cassis and black cherries are backed up by spicy notes, that “wet earth” aroma, and toasty aromas. Get it while it last, they don’t make very much of this and it only gets better as it aereates. Ahh.

Carmenere

Chile’s flagship varietal is actually a “lost” Bordeaux grape that had been brought over in the 19^th century among Merlot cuttings. After phylloxera devastated the European vineyards, they thought it was wiped out—forever. Not the case, Chilean vintners had unknowingly planted this grape amid Merlot vines that were subsequently discovered in 1994. Carmenere is still not widely known but its time is coming—it is simply the most likeable wine out there. Versatility is the key word. Generally speaking, ripe Carmenere exudes an earthy nose that may hint of smoke, roasted peppers, spices like cumin and ground coriander seeds, fresh black plums and figs. Its mouth feel is seductive with soft tannins and a medium body that make it pair with a huge range of foods, especially turkey, sweet potatoes, heavenly stuffing or cornbread.

Haven’t tried it? Take the plunge.

Emiliana Orgánico Nature Carmenere, Chile (US$10): You cannot beat the bang for the buck with this all organic, fruity, straightforward Carmenere. I won’t lie, we poured this across Texas and it was a hit. Lots of red fruit and berries, lush in the mouth with a vibrant acidity, it goes with everything earthy and is sublime with hummus. If you’re entertaining a big crowd this Thanksgiving, this could be your winner.

Viu Manent Carmenere Reserva, Chile (US$15): Chocolate-laden like a wine bonbon, this dense, chewy Carmenere feels decadent in your mouth. Dark fruit and toasty notes with smooth tannins make this a major crowd pleaser. What are you waiting for?

Concha y Toro, Marqués de Concha Carmenere, Chile (US$18): Almost purple in color, think black plums, blackberries, and blueberries accented by tobacco, star anis, and a little oak. It is opulent, succulent, and rich in flavor. It’s not over the top though, balance rules with this baby.

Dessert? Nah, I have never been one for sweets (don’t lynch me!). But if you want to have your pumpkin pie, I guarantee whatever is leftover of the reds in your glass will be the perfect match with an earthy, spice-laden, soul warming dessert.

Happy Thanksgiving to you all! Let me know what you’re drinking this holiday!

Photo Credits: Thanks to Pretty Connected, Bernat Casero, and Daniel Greene for their festive pictures in this post.

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